Imad Alarnab, the founder of beloved Kingly Court restaurant Imad’s Syrian Kitchen, will open Aram, a new cafe, deli and restaurant on Somerset House’s River Terrace in September. For the first time since war broke out in Syria more than a decade ago, Alarnab will be able to use Syrian ingredients to create baked goods, salads, breakfasts and lunches inspired by the cuisines of Syria, Turkey, Cyprus, Jordan and beyond. Aram is one of three new eateries opening this year in Somerset House; it joins Setlist, a bar and arts space that launched at the start of summer, and Poon’s, a home-style Chinese restaurant by chef and entrepreneur Amy Poon, which is coming in autumn.
Three light and airy rooms comprise Aram’s main dining spaces, while a private dining room – named “Salamlik” after the rooms traditionally reserved for important guests in Syrian homes – will host collaborations with emerging talent. “I was very lucky to have my pop-ups,” Alarnab, who began his London cheffing career by hosting charity events and supper clubs, tells Broadsheet. “I could never have dreamed so big [as Somerset House], and I want to share this success to support and elevate [others]. Openings, live music, screenings – there’s space for everything.”
Dishes will foray into regions beyond Syria, with a more casual tilt than at Imad’s. Diners can expect Aleppo-chilli-and-labneh eggs, or brioche with tahini clotted cream and carob-molasses syrup for breakfast. Later in the day you’ll find wholesome plates like rosti with sumac salmon, and salads loaded with roasted aubergine, chickpeas, confit red pepper, tahini dressing, pomegranate, parsley and dill. A curry cauliflower with rocket, red chilli, parsley and black onion seeds is also in the offing.
Cardamom-spiced coffee, Syrian mint tea and spiced pomegranate fizz will be on the pour at the coffee bar, and the store will sell medjool dates, jalapeno shatta (hot sauce), ground coffee, conserves and nuts to take home. There are also pastries like za’atar croissants and halva brownies planned. Plus, look out for pistachio ice-cream made Syrian-style with mastic for a slightly chewy texture.
Ingredients specific to Alarnab’s Damascene roots are hard to access in the face of war and the accompanying ecocide – but he has found ways of importing some ingredients for the first time in years, while still relying on markets across the city. “I love Park Royal – you’ve got Syrian, Lebanese, Afghan, Iraqi supermarkets. I have been able to find so many ingredients there.”
Alarnab is keen to embrace the artistic and cultural side of his new Thames-side location. “The community here at Somerset House is stunning. There’s good energy,” he says. “You’re surrounded by colleges and artists. I somehow feel younger over here.”
He wants to create a bridge between age groups and cultures, he says, and continue his work disrupting refugee tropes of victimisation and visa status. “When I first came to London, I fell in love with the city. Anywhere else I travelled to when I was fleeing Syria, I didn’t feel welcome. But in London, I was for the first time belonging, blending in … and I was invisible for the first time. Everyone is so different, making us all look like one. I didn’t want to bring my own culture; I wanted to be part of this beautiful mosaic of London.”
Aram opens in Somerset House in September.