“I never thought of opening in another neighbourhood,” Anna Higham, founder of Islington’s Quince Bakery, tells Broadsheet. “One of the first things I wrote down for Quince was to be singular and exceptional. I never wanted multi-site replication.”
Higham, who lives near Quince, has just opened Clementine, a second site across the road that she describes as a “sister, not a twin” to Quince. It is built on a similar ethos – the finest seasonal British produce and a commitment to the island’s culinary heritage – but its larger size will allow her to expand her repertoire.
At the diminutive Quince (which opened two years ago) there is no space for customers to sit with their pastries and coffees. That was partly behind Higham’s search for a second site. She was also influenced by Quince’s regulars, many of whom urged her to take on a long-closed pub.
The result? A 20-cover cafe serving breakfast, brunch, elevenses and lunch. Certain bakes, including the bread, buns and cookies, will be made at Quince; scones and the likes of tea loves, bara brith and malt loaf at Clementine.
The kitchen is helmed by Australia-born head chef Marcus Westlake, who previously worked at Italian bakery Forno, and Brawn, a neighbourhood restaurant on Columbia Road. “He’s enjoying learning about traditional British dishes,” Higham says, adding that the two have been scouring old cookbooks for inspiration.
Higham grew up in Scotland, then worked as a pastry chef for numerous high-profile restaurants, including The River Cafe and under Gordon Ramsay. Her menu at Clementine includes some of her nostalgic favourites, including tattie scones. “I freaking love them,” she says of the traditional Scottish potato flatbread. They’re served with scrambled eggs and square sausage made by Stella’s, a butcher on Newington Green. “It’s so exciting to have somewhere that’s going to serve them, it’s what I want to eat.”
At lunchtime, there are sausage sandwiches with sausages (also from Stella’s) infused with a quince preserve made at Quince, and traditional spices including nutmeg, mace and black pepper. They’re served with a quince brown sauce and batch bread, which Higham describes as “a mix of traditional Irish batch and Scottish pan loaf. It’s really soft, the whitest, fluffiest loaf we make.” There are also soups, daily pies and a ploughman’s lunch featuring Gothelney Farm ham and cheeses from Neal’s Yard Dairy. On the opening menu, mussel brose, a Scottish seafood soup thickened with oats that’s rarely seen in London, is also one to watch.
Quince’s design is inspired by the fruit, with varying hues of yellow, orange, magenta and burgundy. Clementine is also guided by its namesake, with colours of “clementine leaf green” adorning the facade and “pith”, a pale, pinky yellow, the walls and ceilings. The room has an arts and crafts feel: second-hand furniture, chapel chairs, amber glasses, lots of warm oak. “There’s a beautiful fireplace, it will be very cosy,” Higham says.
Clementine
190 New North Road, N1 7AA.
Hours:
Wed to Sat 8am–4pm
