Sonay Ali was competing in the 2023 European Championships for Brazilian jiu-jitsu when he was first diagnosed with Crohn’s disease. His life was turned upside down: Ali underwent emergency surgery that put him in a coma for three days and intensive care for 10. The doctor’s orders were to stay home for 16 weeks.
“I couldn’t train, so I decided to put all my energy, passion and creativity into developing pizza at home,” Ali tells Broadsheet. “I had a lot of spare time … every day, I’d wake up and make a schedule for myself to make dough and sauce, test a recipe, tweak this and that.”
Ali’s pizza is inspired by NYC slice shops as well as beloved London pizza venues Vincenzo’s and Crisp. But what sets his dough apart is that it’s more “digestible”; Ali was determined to make a lighter pizza with a perfect crisp base that he could comfortably eat every day. The key is fermenting the dough for as long as possible – an arduous 72-hour bulk fermentation process using a pre-ferment made from water, flour and yeast known as poolish – and using unbleached flour. “It’s really long. That’s why when we sell out, we sell out,” Ali says.
Family and friends were so impressed they practically “peer-pressured” Ali into selling the goods professionally. Just three months after starting out, Ali opened Doctor Dough: a pop-up stall in Hammersmith’s Lyric Square. It was so popular that he was asked to take over the kitchen at the Lyric Theatre during pantomime season, followed by a residency at the Brewery Tap in Brentford. As of earlier this month, he’s finally got a bricks-and-mortar spot on Chiswick’s Devonshire Road.
The menu features all the classic 18-inch pizzas from the pop-up: pepperoni, margherita, tomato pie, vodka pie and a standout white pie (made with fragrant rosemary, garlic and mozzarella). Everything’s New York-style, except for the New Haven pie which is “charred, crispy, super thin”. There’ll also be a fortnightly chef’s special made with ingredients from local Chiswick butchers, plus a seasonal special, kicking off with a potato, rosemary and garlic number in September. You can add unlimited toppings, such as fennel sausage, pepperoni (a preservative- and additive-free version from Properoni), ‘nduja, burrata or hot honey.
“I’ll be cooking every pizza personally, so I’m hoping every pizza comes out perfect,” Ali says.
Doctor Dough is currently collection-only, with pre-orders selling out each day through Storekit. But, there is a limited number available at the counter – and if you get there early enough, you might even snag one of the few tables set up on the outdoor patio. Later in September, when Doctor Dough opens its dining room and courtyard, you’ll be able to sit down and try the full menu. Expect olives, peppers, meatballs, focaccia, 12-inch and 18-inch pizzas – plus tiramisu and gelato to finish. There’ll also be cocktails and wines by the glass.
The new space, with its striking exterior of deep blue tiles – was renovated by Ali and his partner Alice-May Jenkins James on a tight budget. “My partner designed the place,” Ali says. “It feels like home now because we did everything from scratch.”
The fit-out is inspired by the many listening bars, coffee shops and mid-century modern eateries that the pair came across on a recent trip to New York. Shelves display vinyl from the couple’s personal collection, wooden furniture and brass lights. The fun branding – featuring a doctor enjoying a slice – was designed by Brighton agency Bread & Butter.
Doctor Dough
19 Devonshire Road, W4 2EU
Hours:
Wed to Fri 4pm–9pm
Sat 2pm–9pm
Sun midday–7pm
