Fink’s, the north London cafe and bakery group founded by Jess Blackstone and Mat Appleton in 2014, has just taken over Clissold House – a Grade II-listed building in Clissold Park, Stoke Newington – in a revival that marks their biggest and boldest project yet.
Since joining forces a decade ago, Blackstone and Appleton have grown Fink’s into a small empire of neighbourhood cafes, and launched pared-back Highbury restaurant Saltine.
Blackstone tells Broadsheet that Clissold House has been on their radar for years. “We’re just a few metres down the road and were always gazing longingly at this beautiful building in the middle of the park,” she says. When the previous occupants left, the pair seized the opportunity.
“We just decided we’re gonna pitch what we want to do,” says Blackstone. “We want to do something fun and bold and exciting. And if that’s not what [the building’s operators] want, then we don’t want to do it.”
The result is a joyful, colour-drenched revival of the historic rooms, which Blackstone describes as “rooted in the historical context, but also a bit silly”. Appleton agrees.
“The building is massive, the rooms are massive … doing anything too conservative or too boring would have just felt like a nightmare.” Working within the constraints of a listed building has been more inspiring than frustrating, he says. “You are literally just wasting your time if you’re thinking you’re gonna do anything which isn’t going to pass the conservation team … but we’ve viewed that as a positive part of the challenge.”
The project unfolds across three distinct spaces. There’s the kiosk, a jewel-like corner space opening onto the rose garden, where park-goers can grab takeaway coffee, croissants and seasonal bakes. The Pink Room, light-flooded with candy-striped curtains, is the main cafe area, where the cabinets are packed with cakes, sandwiches and salads to eat in or take away. And then there’s the dining room, a grand green-hued space that fits 45 covers inside and more under the portico. Its menu is a return to the à la carte dining that Blackstone says she’s been longing for since her early days cooking behind the counter at Fink’s.
Expect a giant rosti topped with cavolo nero, fried egg and crispy serrano ham; house-made crumpets (“my favourite thing on earth”, says Blackstone); and a sausage sandwich on Fink’s sugar pan loaf with sausages by farmer Tom Jones (who supplies venues like St John and Camille) – the dish Appleton says will be his first order on opening day.
Meanwhile, for the kids, there’s the “ducklings” menu, with cornflake chicken dippers and pasta with “favourite sauce” – a tomato-mascarpone recipe lifted from Blackstone’s family table.
Blackstone says the new venue is almost a blend of Fink’s and Saltine: like the former, it will have nostalgic sandwiches and cakes by head of pastry Adriann Ramirez and head baker Adam Morley, but there will also be more playful plates, à la Saltine.
To drink, there’s coffee alongside wines from St John. And while evenings will be shaped by the park’s closing times, Blackstone hints at later services in the summer, when light from the setting sun hits the house’s front steps.
Clissold House is both a bucket-list space for Appleton and Blackstone, and a chance to bring their playful sensibility to a wider audience. “I like that moment when you’re out of the stables and you’re running,” says Appleton. “It feels good.”
Clissold House
Stoke Newington Church Street, N16 9HJ
Hours:
Mon to Sat 8am–4pm
Sun 9am–4pm
