You might know it as a quaint fishing town, a popular hotspot for Victorian consumptives and the legendary site of a Norman invasion. Or you might not know it at all: unlike its bigger, brasher coastal cousins Brighton and Margate, Hastings – and its next-door neighbour, St Leonards-on-Sea – still flies somewhat under the radar.
Though it’s long been a haven for artists (Quentin Blake lived for years just round the corner from the excellent Hastings Contemporary gallery), a pandemic-era influx of London exiles has, for better (great restaurants) and worse (diabolical rent hikes) reshaped the scene. A 55-room hotel and members’ club, Crafted at Powdermills, due to open in nearby Battle this month, is the latest sign of its rising profile. “The region has an incredible energy right now,” Crafted co-founder Chris King tells Broadsheet. “It’s fast becoming a cultural and culinary destination in its own right, and we want to be part of that story.”
West Hill is a good vantage point to get your bearings year-round, as is the East Hill, a popular haunt for both dog walkers and visitors accessing the idyllic Country Park. Both have Victorian-era funiculars for the weary-legged. Below, all the classic seaside fixtures are present and correct: a creaky amusement park; antique and sweet shops; and black-painted net huts, among which fishermen still sell the day’s catch in the mornings.
Follow the long stretch of pebble beach down to Bottle Alley, a covered seafront walkway leading to St Leonards, which owes its stately good looks to James and Decimus Burton, the father-and-son architects behind large swathes of Bloomsbury and St John’s Wood. These days, the vibe is more bohemian, with a scattering of galleries, wine bars and vintage shops. On the water’s edge, local icon Goat Ledge sets the tone with beachy tunes and local brews; settle here with a smoked haddock “sunrise sandwich”. With any luck, you might spot a seal or two – a breaching whale, improbably, graced the town with a passing visit earlier this year. Lively Kings Road, with its streetside tables, indie boutiques and monthly market, leads up to Warrior Square Station and the 90-minute ride back to London.
##Eat Bijou British Sri Lankan restaurant Lury has set local tongues wagging with its 10- to 12-course set menu served in an unassuming New Town basement. The egg course – softly poached with lime foam and seeni sambol – is a standout. Petersham Nurseries offspring Bayte, on Kings Road, took over the Hasting Contemporary’s cafe this year, rebranding it as Coquina and opening it up to the public. On bunting-decked George Street, new Levantine bakery Arta serves fresh-from-the-oven za’atar flatbread and tahini cookies.
##Drink There’s no shortage of quality pubs in the area, each with its own USP: a Southeast Asian menu at the Seadog, roaring fires and a cosy nook at The Crown, live bands and sea shanties at [The Jenny Lind](The Jenny Lind.). On Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings, bagel joint Sleeper turns into the intimate Wermut Bar. Try the fermented cucumber Martini, a collaboration with Bistro Albo down the road.
##Shop Hunting for treasure around the Old Town’s second-hand shops is a huge draw, though old stalwarts like Roberts Rummage are giving way to pricier dealers such as Sideshow and newcomer Pitch. Start at Courthouse Street Yard, a labyrinthine junk shop stocking everything from vintage Le Creuset to workwear and vinyl. If you’d rather someone do the hard work for you, call in at the tiny Hawk & Dove; owner Jade has a knack for sourcing unique silks, linens and leathers for a song.
##Do Book ahead for a sauna at Samphire, one of the best experiences you can have on a rusty pier. Join one of the communal sessions or share your private woodfired horsebox with three friends. Lean into the artist retreat spirit with a weekend class: wheel throwing at potter studio Neighbourhood, or linocut printing at Bus Stop Studios. Or plan a day trip: Hastings is within easy reach of seal sanctuary Fairlight, postcard-perfect Rye, and the exuberant Great Dixter Gardens.
