The set menu at Little Baobab, in Southwark’s Africa Centre changes regularly. But it might include dishes like ndambe teranga bites – a snacky take on Senegal’s classic black-eyed pea stew; thiou boulette (fish balls); lamb mafe (lamb chops in peanut sauce) with fried cassava purée, grilled carrots and rice; or soupou kandja, an okra and palm oil stew with tiger prawns. They’re dishes not common in London restaurants – and that’s because Little Baobab is one of the only places in London (outside home kitchens) you’ll find Senegalese food.
Chef-founder Khadim Mbamba has been plying his trade under the Little Baobab moniker for years, and launched a restaurant in the Africa Centre in 2024. There he’s cooking Londoners the dishes of Senegal, where he grew up. That could be through his evening set menus; approachable lunch menus (think lamb and jollof rice, and a burger version of chicken yassa, a classic Senegalese dish of marinated chicken); or a recently launched food and live music series, which includes a buffet and music by emerging African artists for £35.
Mbamba is adept at giving Londoners a taste of his hometown – but where does he eat in his adopted home? Broadsheet asked, and found he’s admiring the city’s West African food scene, loves entertaining at home and knows a real east London gem.
Is there anything happening in London’s food scene that’s getting you excited at the moment?
Yes, we are finally seeing West African food have its moment, and seeing so many people exploring and enjoying the food for the first time. There is a really great group of West African restaurants pushing forward and gaining recognition for their work, and it’s really exciting to see our flavours and ingredients in the spotlight.
Where do you head for great West African food?
Akara, Chuku’s or Shwen Shwen – all from different regions in West Africa and highlighting the diversity of our food.
What’s your go-to for a quick takeaway dinner?
House of Momo in Dalston, by my friend Shubha Giri. It does tasty and satisfying Nepalese dumplings and dishes that the whole family loves.
Where do you visit if you’re after lunch on the go?
Rye Lane Bagels in Peckham – it’s quick and easy and has really inventive fillings.
What’s your special occasion restaurant pick?
I recently went to Akoko for my birthday and it was amazing. They’ve managed to capture the essence of West African food but present it in a really interesting and delicate way.
Where do you take visitors to London?
I always bring friends to my restaurant, to show them what I’ve created and what we are up to. We change the menu regularly so there’s always something new. For my Senegalese friends it’s also special for them to have a taste of home, and it’s not easy to find Senegalese food in the UK.
Where would you go for a good drink and a snack?
I’m going to say at home because I don’t drink alcohol, so don’t really go out for drinks! I often host friends at my house and make attaya (a Senegalese tea made from gunpowder green tea and mint) and make fataya and akara (Senegalese street foods).
Your favourite breakfast spot?
Suba Bakery for an oat flat white and a cashew croissant.
Where do you buy your groceries?
I buy meat from my butchers in Ridley Road Market, get a fortnightly delivery of fresh and seasonal organic fruit and veg from Riverford, and top up with day-to-day items from the Turkish Food Centre and shops near my house.
Is there a hidden gem in London more people should know about?
Palm2 in Clapton. It has an amazing light-filled space upstairs that I used for years for my pop-ups. Now they host regular pop-ups from chefs from all over the world – you can check their Instagram for what’s coming up, but could be treated to a fun pop-up with a menu from anywhere in the world – Sudan, China, Afro-vegan, Palestine, Irish.
What’s your favourite sweet treat in London?
The banana brûlée from the newly opened Farha bakery in Leyton. All of their pastries are delicious, but this one really stood out.
What’s your bucket list restaurant?
La Marine in Noirmoutier, France. It does beautiful fresh and local seafood where the focus is on the quality ingredients, set on the edge of Noirmoutier island. I first heard about it when the chef was featured on the Chef’s Table series and it’s been in my mind ever since.
