The first Koya opened in Soho in April 2010, serving handmade udon – a concept that was almost non-existent in the capital at the time. Since, two more Koyas have launched: in the City and in Hackney, the brand’s latest outpost, which is more casual than the rest and sells jarred pickles, fresh udon and a Bitsy Chilli Oil that has become enormously popular.
In the lead up to the Hackney launch, they learnt to “let go”, co-founder and executive chef Shuko Oda tells Broadsheet. That meant honouring handmade noodles and traditional dashi-making. “But the things on top, I was happy to give it a go,” she says. That flexible mindset led to the invention of Koya’s own line of products. Oda describes the Bitsy Chilli Oil as a take on a traditional rayu, or Japanese bitsy chilli oil, and Chinese crispy chilli oil.
Koya’s central kitchen is where the team makes noodles, dashi and all the jarred goods by hand. The chilli oil is made in stages to ensure perfect consistency and prevent burning. “We fry the cashews separately so they retain crunchiness and colour,” says Oda. “The other bits are done separately too, so they don’t burn. Because once it’s a burnt flavour, it’s not nice to crunch on. That’s one thing we make sure of – to keep it stirring so it cooks evenly.”
The chilli oil and other provisions are part of Koya’s Omiyage range of products, which are available directly from Koya’s online store or through retailers like Sous Chef and Delli. Omiyage translates from Japanese to “souvenir” or “gift”. On the Hackney menu, it’s served on Gyu-Don (slow-braised beef shin and chives); KO Meaty (udon with the same); Crunchy Spicy Yakko (cold tofu, pickled seaweed with spicy salad); or simply as an extra on the side.
Aside from drizzling it on everything, Oda recommends tossing the oil in a frying pan after steaming edamame to help the oil sink in. “Another classic way to use it is mixing it with dressings or mayonnaise.” Combine it with soy sauce, rice vinegar and tahini or peanut butter, and it forms the base of a dressing for vegetables or proteins.
“It’s quite important to me that we serve authentic food,” Oda says. “But it doesn’t have to be one dimension, it can be a take on a few different cultures and flavours, without using their foundations [in place of the Japanese-cooking fundamentals].”
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