This Saturday, June 6 is your last chance to try chef Kaneda Pen’s Khmer fried chicken bun, panko pork toast and other fun twists on classic Cambodian dishes at Soho pub The Sun & 13 Cantons. The chef (ex-From the Ashes) announced the news on his Instagram page several months ago: “Some things are only here for a finite defining period of our lives, eg S Club 7, Ron Perlman as Hellboy, Nokia 8310s … Thank you to everyone in making this the greatest honour of my career.”
Taking Mamapen’s place is Tagine & Grill, a concept built around Moroccan open-fire cooking that will land at The Sun & 13 Cantons on June 10. It’s the next step for hospitality entrepreneur Yassir Chair who recently completed a five-week Tagine & Grill pop-up at Clapham’s King & Co pub. Chair also founded the fast-growing Afuego Burger concept, which has residencies in pubs across the capital.
Tagine & Grill is close to Chair’s heart. He was born and raised in Morocco, then moved to London at 20. At his permanent Soho pop-up, he’ll bring modern Moroccan sharing-styles plates built for casual dining, with sweetness and smoke running through the menu. This looks like king prawn Tangier bastila cigars (filled pastry); slow-cooked vegetable couscous; and chargrilled merguez sausages.
Kebabs are a key part of the menu, served on open flatbread and layered with pickles, herbs and sauces, with fillings like chargrilled lamb kofta and a harissa-glazed halloumi.
Each week, the kitchen will create a new special tagine, making the most of seasonal produce. Desserts will include roasted almond and honey briouats – flaky pastries with a nutty finish.
“Moroccan cuisine is still underrated in London and hasn’t received the recognition it deserves,” Chair said in a statement. “With Tagine & Grill, I want to introduce people to the richness of Moroccan food and culture through bold flavours, charcoal grilling and a modern approach that feels exciting and accessible.”
As for the future of Mamapen, Pen promised that “all will be revealed”. “Thank you for giving Cambodian food the recognition it deserves,” he said on Instagram). “We’re working towards a new space and a new menu.”
Mamapen will end its residency at The Sun & 13 Cantons at 21 Great Pulteney Street, W1F 9NG on June 6. Tagine & Grill will launch its permanent residency on June 10.
