Few things have gripped the London food scene in the last decade quite like the arrival and overnight success of Norman’s, the nostalgia-laced new-school caff that opened in Archway in 2020 and closed last year. But after five years of aesthetically pleasing fry-ups and many high-profile collaborations, co-founder Elliott Kaye fancied a change of pace.
Enter: Marrion’s, a casual neighbourhood bar on Hackney’s Morning Lane which, for Kaye, marks something of a return to his pre-Norman’s life, when he worked at restaurants and bars including Lyle’s, The French House and Leroy. “Norman’s was great, but the lease ran out and it just felt right to switch it up,” he tells Broadsheet. “I wanted to move back towards nightlife.”
Marrion’s is inspired by timeless, old-school institutions. The Odeon in New York is a particular standout for Kaye, who says the appeal is that “the vibe never, never changed” and “you always know what you’re going to get”.
The bar boasts a distinctly Parisian vibe, with dark moody timber, pared-back cream walls, bistro-style flooring and vintage mirrors sitting alongside red-topped tables and a curved black bar with an integrated trough for chilling bottles of wine that are destined to be served by the glass over ice.
The new spot does have a smidgen of Norman’s DNA. “The foundation is very similar,” Kaye says, “in terms of just simple, approachable food and drink.” It has “the same sort of nostalgic vibe”.
The difference here is that “it’s more wet-led. We’ve got a pretty small food menu”. For Kaye, the ideal Marrion’s evening is one where “you’d come for a drink, and then you end up cancelling the dinner reservation, staying and having just funny, drunken food”.
Said drunken food includes an oozing devilled crab rarebit, crisp pork schnitzel Holstein with capers, anchovies and fried egg, prawn cocktail and a juicy cheeseburger. Kaye is particularly enthusiastic about the tuna melt, a New York-inspired stack of tuna, house mayo and American cheese skewered with a toothpick and served with a thick wedge of pickle on top. “It’s literally just house mayo and tuna and cheese, which just works so great.”
Moving forward, Kaye is keen to keep the menu uncomplicated. “People know the food,” he says. “There’s nothing crazy about it, but we just do it really well.” More importantly, “it’s the kind of food I want to [eat] after I have a couple of cocktails and a beer or a wine”.
Drinks are similarly fuss-free. Wines on tap from low-intervention supplier Unchartered start at £5 a glass, with bottles from £30. “The idea is basically just to have a fun and approachable list,” Kaye says.
Victoria Malaga lager is available on draught, served in cute little caña glasses. Plus, there’s Spanish vermouth over ice and classically inclined cocktails maxing out at £13. Each month, the team plans to introduce a different house cocktail, beginning with the Puritan, a Martini spiked with Yellow Chartreuse and orange bitters.
A Copenhagen-made sound system adds a dash of extra energy to the room, with playlists moving from calmer vibes earlier in the week to ’90s R&B, disco and Diana Ross on Friday and Saturday nights. Marrion’s has a licence until 1am, with last orders at 12.30am, though Kaye is hoping to eventually extend it further.
Once Marrion’s has established itself, Kaye also plans to introduce Sunday brunch, with the menu to include anchovy toast and boiled eggs, smoked ham with sage-fried eggs, and a lox bagel with house-made cream cheese. “I think this area is so great on a Sunday with all the markets, so I think it would go down pretty well.”
For now, Marrion’s is open for walk-ins from Wednesday to Saturday, 6.30pm until late.
Marrion’s
177 Morning Lane, E9 6LH
Hours:
Wed 6.30pm–midnight
Thu to Sat 6.30pm–1am
