Central London isn’t known for its bakeries. That’s why co-owner Burak Demirelli opened Fred in Holborn back in 2021: to bring pastries into Zone 1 that Londoners would travel for, in the same way they make bakery pilgrimages to Dalston or Balham.
The original Fred was, and still is, a hit. But it wasn’t quite big enough to make the pastries the team dreamt of. Enter Fred 2.0: a spacious split-level outpost tucked away on Margaret Street near Oxford Circus.
Five signature laminated pastries feature on the expanded menu, baked by a team with Cedric Grolet and Bread Ahead cred. The pistachio roll – filled with pistachio cream and mixed berry compote – is a standout, as is the tiramisu version overflowing with coffee cake and rich mascarpone. On the savoury side, there’s a bechamel, mashed potato and parmesan cruffin. The Fred classics remain, including ham and cheese croissants, cookies and danishes, and an orange-pistachio brioche that tastes just like baklava. Plus, ciabatta and sourdough loaves.
Come lunchtime, there are Italian sandwiches such as parma ham and burrata stuffed into soft ciabatta and a tuna-courgette combo on sourdough. It’s the same selection as at Holborn, but you can actually sit down and enjoy it on your lunch break. There are also three types of fluffy focaccia pizzas sold by the slice, topped with ingredients like stracciatella, artichoke and mozzarella.
Surprisingly, Fred has ditched its signature drink menu – including its popular tiramisu latte – to focus on pastries. But you can still get your coffee fix and matcha by Japanese brand Sayuri.
The site was originally two separate venues: a gallery downstairs and a Coco di Mama upstairs. Over five months, interior design agency Red Deer (St John Marylebone, Perilla) renovated the space and built a staircase to connect the two. The ground floor feels like a Parisian boulangerie, with dark wood, tiled floors and big pendant lights – plus, a croissant-shaped door handle that you can’t miss. There’s a glass-walled open kitchen (“seeing the action” is important to Demirelli across all his venues); an elegant curved viennoiserie display; and shelves lined with merch. This area is mostly grab-and-go, though it has a few tables and a charming window bench that’s perfect for people-watching.
Downstairs is a different story: a quiet escape for eating, relaxing and working right up until closing time at 6pm. The room has French and Italian cues, with dark wooden chairs, long marble counters, vintage poster artwork and antique pieces including a 25-year-old floor lamp. “We want people to feel like it’s a bakery from 20 years ago,” says Demirelli. “We want it to feel like home”.
Fred Bakery in Oxford Circus is the fifth venue from Demirelli and his team, who also own both outposts of Italian restaurant Faros. Next up: a Turkish restaurant called Lokal, which opens at the end of May.
Fred Bakery
52–53 Margaret Street, W1W 8SQ
Hours:
Mon to Fri 7.30am-6pm
Sat & Sun 8.30am–6pm
