Japanese clothing label Goldwin has just opened its first European flagship store in London. The brand’s status as an IYKYK secret for fans of minimalist outdoors design is about to change; the shop on Soho’s Broadwick Street is a paean to Goldwin’s ethos of innovation and heritage.
In the spot where a vegetarian Pret used to stand, there’s now a circular shopfloor dominated by columns mimicking a Japanese yashiro, or shrine. In its centre an inner circle of Akita Sugi cedar timber posts, echoing traditional Japanese architecture. By contrast, its outer rim consists of 12 vertical LED screens displaying nature videos and abstract video art. This theatrical area – designed by Japanese architecture firm New Material Research Laboratory, showcases Goldwin’s classic and basic clothing lines, including Goldwin 0. This experimental line was launched in 2022 and is a testing ground for innovative fabrics and processes, such as lab-grown yarns and waterproof textiles made from waste plastic. Goldwin 0’s design director is Nur Abbas who has worked at Louis Vuitton, Maison Margiela and Uniqlo.
The Goldwin business began in 1950 as the Tsuzawa Knit Fabric Manufacturer, making jumpers and socks for skiers. In 1958, the brand changed its name to Goldwin, referring to founder Tosaku Nishida’s dream to work with the gold winners in the 1964 Olympics. Over the decades it has expanded to include outdoor garments and streetwear as well as technical sportswear, but growth has not come at the expense of integrity. The company is known for its quality and for a focus on material research and environmental responsibility.
Shinji Kawada, president of Goldwin London, says that the brand’s aim is to expand the potential of people and nature. “Goldwin will continue to evolve as a brand that reexamines the lives of humans as they exist alongside nature, and explores ways of coexisting with circularity that go beyond the boundaries of individual countries or cultures.”
Recent innovations include the use of “brewed protein” – smooth-surfaced and sustainable fibres made through fermentation of plant-based ingredients – central to Goldwin’s activewear and outdoors clothing. Goldwin has also remained true to its founder’s original mission: the company created the racing suits and training wear for the British Alpine National Team from 2017 to 2021.
Anyone interested in Goldwin’s innovation in textile creation should also head to Mills Fabrica in King’s Cross, which is hosting an exhibition called Performance Without Toxicity, showcasing ethical and renewable sportswear fabrics.
Goldwin
35 Broadwick Street, W1F 0DH
020 4630 9070
Hours:
Mon–Sat 11am-7pm
Sun midday–6pm
