If there’s someone to ask about Lisbon’s food scene, it’s Olivier da Costa. Born and raised in the Portuguese capital, the chef and restaurateur grew up in his parents’ neighbourhood bistro before opening his first restaurant in 1996. In the three decades since, he’s built it into an international hospitality stalwart, the Olivier Group, with 35 restaurants across seven countries and three continents.
Sunny Lisbon, though, is still his home. Da Costa’s restaurants in the city include riverside seafood spot ACosta, rooftop restaurant and bar Seen and the recently unveiled omakase restaurant Mimi. And while the city’s dining scene has evolved considerably over the course of his career, he reckons right now it’s hitting its stride.
“Lisbon is becoming more confident,” da Costa tells Broadsheet. “For many years, the city often looked abroad for inspiration, now chefs, bartenders and restaurateurs are embracing Portuguese identity in a more contemporary way.”
What, exactly, does that look like? According to da Costa, it’s young chefs reworking classic dishes, wine lists showcasing Portuguese producers and a nightlife scene that “feels energetic without trying too hard”.
It’s all part of what da Costa sees as the city’s particular charm. “Lisbon offers something very rare today: authenticity with elegance,” he says. “It’s relaxed yet sophisticated, which is why so many people find themselves returning again and again.”
Here, da Costa shares his guide to eating, drinking and shopping in Lisbon.
A stay for first-timers
I love hotels that reflect the soul of the city. Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon is timeless and iconic, especially for first-time visitors wanting classic luxury. For something more intimate and stylish, Memmo Principe Real captures the elegance and charm of Lisbon beautifully.
The hottest restaurant in Lisbon right now
I have always been impressed by Palacio Chiado, which is in an incredible mansion built in 1781. The interiors are unforgettable and there is a sense of history present in every corner, from its ornate ceilings and gilded rooms to sweeping grand staircases.
An old faithful you always return to
ACosta by Olivier Lisbon. Great seafood, a vibrant atmosphere by the river, and a level of service that reflects why I fell in love with this industry in the first place.
A neighbourhood to spend an afternoon exploring
Príncipe Real. It has everything I love about Lisbon in one neighbourhood: beautiful architecture, independent boutiques, cafes, galleries, gardens, restaurants and a very cosmopolitan energy. You can spend an entire afternoon there without a plan and discover something unexpected every hour.
Where to head for a drink
It depends on the mood. Lisbon's natural wine scene keeps growing – Bom Bom Bom is great for a crisp glass of natural wine. For cocktails with a view, Seen by Olivier Lisbon not only has some of the best cocktails in town, but it also has the most incredible views of the city.
Tell us about your ideal day off in Lisbon
Honestly, the best luxury today is slowing down. A long lunch with friends, being near the ocean, maybe driving along the coast toward Cascais, playing golf and enjoying simple things. Portugal teaches you that quality of life is about rhythm, not speed.
A shop to take home something uniquely Portuguese
A Vida Portuguesa. It’s one of the best places to discover Portuguese craftsmanship, design and nostalgic objects that truly represent the country without feeling touristy.
A great day trip out of town
Comporta. It’s chic but still very natural and understated. Beautiful beaches, incredible weather and fantastic food, and a calmness that contrasts with the city. It represents a very refined side of Portugal today.
