Helen Graham believes it’s high time vegetables took their rightful place. As the former executive chef of beloved vegetarian restaurant Bubala – and before that, working at spots like Ottolenghi Test Kitchen and The Barbary – Graham has cultivated a passion for Middle Eastern and North African cuisines, putting vegetables front and centre in her cooking.
Her new cookbook, Centrepiece – released today (April 9) by Hamlyn – features 100 vegetable-based recipes. They draw from Middle Eastern and North African flavours, as well as Graham’s Ashkenazi Jewish heritage.
Graham describes this dish as her “non-traditional take” on an Egyptian favourite, “usually served at breakfast, but for breakfast, lunch or dinner, ful medames has got your back”. This zingy, fava bean-based dish can be served as a side dish or main, best enjoyed with flatbreads, hummus or feta, and olive oil.
A note on the fava beans: “Fava beans can be bought in Middle Eastern supermarkets. You can also find dried fava (which you would need to pre-cook) in health food shops; just soak 400g, as they double in weight after cooking, and reserve 600ml of the cooking liquid to add to the pot in addition to the 300ml water added later in the recipe.”
Ful medames, harissa roast tomatoes and pickled chilli salsa
Serves 6 as a side dish, 4 as a main
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Ingredients
2 400g cans of fava beans (or see recipe introduction)
5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 ½ tablespoons ground cumin
5 tablespoons tahini paste
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika
300ml water
4 tablespoons lemon juice
Olive oil, to serve (optional)
For the harissa roast tomatoes
500g cherry or baby plum tomatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons harissa
For the pickled chilli salsa
½ red onion, finely chopped
4 tablespoons olive oil
Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon, plus 2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped basil leaves
40g whole pickled chillies, finely chopped
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
Method
Preheat the oven to 180°C fan (400°F), Gas Mark 6.
Line a baking tray with nonstick baking paper.
For the roast tomatoes, toss the tomatoes together with the oil, salt and harissa in a bowl, then transfer to the lined tray. Roast for 25-30 minutes, tossing halfway through, until jammy and soft.
Put the fava beans and their liquid in a saucepan, along with the garlic, cumin, tahini, salt, paprika and measured water. Set over a medium heat, bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Use a potato masher to lightly crush some of the beans while they cook; this will help to thicken the sauce. The texture should have become much thicker, but should also remain loose enough to spoon. Turn off the heat and stir in the lemon juice.
To make the salsa, combine all the ingredients in a small bowl and stir to combine.
To serve, spoon the warm ful medames into a serving dish and scatter the tomatoes and salsa on top, drizzling over olive oil, if you like.
Centrepiece by Helen Graham is out now, £28. Published by Hamlyn. Photography by Yuki Sugiura.
