When Jamie Younger heard longstanding East Dulwich restaurant and bar Franklins was closing, he jumped at the opportunity to take over the lease, asking his partner Rema Waterhouse: “Should we do one more?”.
In 2003, Younger and Waterhouse opened their first venue, beloved gastropub The Palmerston, on Lordship Lane. Since then, the couple has opened several venues including Thai restaurant The Begging Bowl in nearby Peckham. The Palmerston closed in 2019, when the landlord decided not to renew the lease.
“Seven years after we were kicked out of Lordship Lane, we're back,” Younger tells Broadsheet. “I just loved Franklins,” he adds. “I didn’t want it to go to a chain or turn into a burger bar, which has happened a lot here.” Younger has reopened the space as a pub, reinstating its original name The Victory.
Executive chef Seán Breen (Noble Rot, Hero of Maida Vale) and Younger have developed a European bistro menu that celebrates British ingredients. The pair first met when Breen was eight years old; his mother was a regular at The Palmerston, and at 16 he got his first job at The Begging Bowl. Over the years, Breen and Younger stayed in touch and realised they had the same taste in food.
“Knowing [Breen’s] a Dulwich boy and his mum still lived in the area … I asked if he’d want to take that next step,” says Younger.
The menu will change seasonally, though a handful of dishes will remain on the menu all year-round: the chopped egg and anchovy mayonnaise (a nod to Younger’s childhood favourite, boiled eggs and soldiers), whole roast French poulet and classic rum baba.
French-leaning dishes line the menu; snacks and starters include duck liver and foie gras parfait with house-made crisps; moreish garlic prawn gildas; and steak tartare atop dripping toast. For mains, expect whole grilled fish for two; steak and bordelaise sauce and an asparagus tart with tapenade and parmesan – and later in summer, lobster cooked in garlic and parsley butter. Alongside the rum baba, desserts might include fig leaf custard and a chocolate and hazelnut choux bun.
“We’re going to work with all the suppliers and find what’s perfect at that time,” says Younger.
Ice-cold Martinis lead the drinks list, including the zesty Nelson’s Blood. There are also classic cocktails, vermouths and cognacs. The wine list spans all regions in France, complemented with pours from South Africa, Australia, Spain, Portugal and more.
The space itself is a “spruce-up” of Franklins but with a more pub-like feel. The front bar has zinc bar tops reminiscent of a French brasserie and a brass bell for last drinks, while the dining area and back bar are kept simple with wooden tables, flowers and Bentwood chairs, plus porcelain lights and large mirrors everywhere. The downstairs dining room is a complete refurb that doubles as a private dining room, complete with pink-hued banquettes, antique mirrors and candles. The heritage-listed frontage retains its charming blue tiles.
The Victory has already seen a reunion of regulars from Franklins (staff members have also stayed on) and old friends from The Palmerston. “It’s bringing everybody back together,” beams Younger. “It's gone full circle.”
The Victory
157 Lordship Lane, SE22 8HX
Hours:
Mon to Thu midday–2.30pm, 5pm–9.30pm
Fri midday–2.30pm, 5pm–10pm
Sat midday–3pm, 5pm–10pm
Sun midday–5pm
