Walk down any high street in London and you’ll encounter a pie – maybe at a pub, perhaps at an old-school pie and mash shop, or even at one of the many London venues doing a pie special during British Pie Week (March 2 to 8). What we’re saying is, we won’t travel for just any pie. But the pies on offer next week at Margot Henderson’s Somerset countryside pub the Three Horsehoes in Batcombe? Those we will travel for. The Rochelle Canteen doyenne, who restored and reopened the 18th-century pub with rooms with art dealer Max Wigram in 2023, and the pub’s head chef Nye Smith have lured an impressive roster of chefs to each contribute a pie to the menu from Monday to Friday, with a couple of classic versions and some more outré takes.
“The aim was to showcase a range of pies – from traditional, slow-cooked classics to more seasonal or inventive takes – so guests can experience something different throughout the week,” says Smith.
First up to bake on Monday March 2 is the always seafood-savvy Mark Hix. He’ll be playing to his strengths with a lobster and crayfish stargazy pie – a take on the Cornish classic, in which fish heads poke through the pastry as though they’re staring into the heavens.
Tom Hurst, founder and chef of Farringdon’s Cloth, steps up on the Tuesday with his devotion to seasonality shining in a pie of veal, smoked bacon and wild garlic that stars local produce and French technique.
Henderson is keeping it in the family on Wednesday: her son Hector Henderson (head chef of Rochelle Canteen) and husband Fergus Henderson – who is known for cooking up mighty pies at St John – will collaborate on a smoked eel pie.
Thursday’s talent arrives from Bristol in the form of Kyu Jeon and Duncan Robertson, the chef-owners of well-loved Korean restaurants Bokman and Dongnae. That Korean influence will shine in a pig’s head, kimchi, potato and oyster pie.
Finally, Brawn’s Ed Wilson is venturing to the West Country on Friday with a chicken, sweetbread and wild garlic take that shows off his rustic, sophisticated cooking.
“I’m especially looking forward to trying the pies that put a fresh spin on the classics,” says Smith. “It’s always exciting to see how different chefs handle pastry, balance flavours, and make a familiar dish feel new while still keeping that sense of comfort.”
