East London-based chef Josh Dallaway and his partner, sommelier Sinead Murdoch, have been going from strength to strength with their roaming Iberian-inspired restaurant concept, Tasca. Named for the traditional, often family-run taverns of Portugal and Spain that serve food, Tasca followed its popular residency at Cav in Bethnal Green by taking over north London restaurant and wine bar Giacco’s, where it’ll be until January 31 before moving onto Bruno in Victorian Park in February.
Dallaway developed his skills at the influential Hackney wine bar and restaurant Sager & Wilde, before taking on the mantle of head chef at the now-closed Michelin-listed restaurant and orange wine bar Silver Lining. With Tasca, Dallaway is able to fully express his love of the Iberian Peninsula’s convivial dining culture, rustling up snacks like focaccia with whipped goat’s curd and heartier dishes like the rojão sandwich – the bifana’s spicier cousin – stuffed with slow-cooked chunks of garlic- and wine-marinated pork. To pair with the dishes, Murdoch has curated a selection of low-intervention wines championing female wine-makers.
While the chef’s career has heavily skewed east, Dallaway and Murdoch will venture over to Borough, or even west London if the occasion calls for it. Broadsheet asked him about their favourite date night spots, his go-to spots for sweet treats and snacks, and the underrated places that deserve more love.
What’s a hidden gem in London that more people should know about?
It isn’t really a hidden gem, but I don’t think Cadet in Newington Green gets the hype it deserves. We were there a while ago and the food Mike Murphy is cooking with limited equipment is nothing short of extraordinary. The food was seasoned perfectly and it felt so full of vigour and well put together, and was so alive on the plate. It really made me appreciate what cooking should be about. Well sourced, cooked with love and care. It really was a fantastic meal.
What’s your go-to for a quick takeaway dinner?
I am a glutton for a Bleecker blue burger and angry fries [salted fries with hot sauce and blue cheese sauce]. Hits the spot every time.
You need a quick lunch on the go. Where are you grabbing it from?
I have a couple of go-tos. I’ll get the Grapow from Dom’s Subs on Hackney Road at least once a month. A freshly cooked cheese and potato gozleme from E&R Natural Food on Roman Road never lets me down. Also, pretty much any banh mi from Kingsland Road.
What’s your favourite coffee spot?
We are spoiled for great coffee in Bethnal Green but I’d say my two stand-outs are Rastro on Bethnal Green Road and Paradox Coffee in Netil Market.
It’s date night. Where are you going?
Our most common date spot would be Smoking Goat as it slaps every time and just has everything you want in a restaurant. But we tend to go every few weeks so perhaps it’s not so “special”. A recent favourite was Camille in Borough Market. The food was elegant but also full of flavour, the wine list was superb and the staff were excellent. We followed up with an Irish coffee at Swift just down the road, giving us the energy for the cycle back over the river to Sager & Wilde for a fantastic glass of savagnin. Another brief cycle, and we finished our night at A Bar with Shapes for a Name in Haggerston. This is where most, if not all, of our date nights end up.
Take us through your special occasion meal.
We tend to travel a bit further afield from our east London roots to west London. Last time we had astounding snacks at Dorian, followed by oysters and Guinness at The Pelican. We then continued with some outrageous bottles at Golborne Deli, finishing off at what was Orasay, now Dove. It means a return visit is very much on the cards! Making more of an event of it, rather than one blowout meal, is how we like to celebrate.
You have friends visiting from out of London. Where are you taking them?
One of our local boozers, like The Camel, The Sun Tavern or Bethnal Green Tavern. If we have friends from abroad over, we’ll go to St John Bread and Wine. Nothing says London quite like it. Kiln is also a great shout; it’s just so vibey and every dish hits.
What’s your favourite sweet treat in London?
The turmeric bun from Pavillion Bakery.
Give us your best spot for a quick drink and a snack.
I've really been enjoying The Knave of Clubs. The bar snacks are brilliant and they pour a mean Guinness! The selection of snacks at Morchella is also tough to beat.
Where does the best breakfast?
I love Mae & Harvey on Roman Road. Unpretentious breakfast done perfectly with great coffee and early lunch options.
You’re after a long lunch. Where are you booking?
The Quality Chop House would be up there. I’d order most of the starters to share, then move onto the steaks and large cuts with the iconic pressed potato terrines. With great wine of course. Mountain is also fantastic for this. It's a very transportive restaurant; I want to be taken somewhere with food when I’m in it for the long haul.
Where do you buy your groceries?
With our current hectic work schedules, cooking at home is rare. But I try and make it to Victoria Park Market at the weekends to stock up on wonderful fruit and vegetables from the farmers’ market. Peckover is our local butchers and is superb.
What’s exciting you about London’s hospitality scene right now?
I’m really enjoying the new crowd of pop-up chefs taking the wine bar residency game to a new level. For a few years it was all the same names cooking relatively similar food. But now there’s a huge variety of cuisines being cooked, sometimes in tiny venues with only an induction hob to work with. The creativity on show is excellent, for example Anna Søgaard from Jomfru and Frankie Clarke of Irie.
