When creating cocktails, Ryan Chetiyawardana starts with a story, then builds the ingredients around it. At Lyaness, his elegant powder-blue bar on the South Bank, he serves a Gin Sour inspired by the brainless slime mould that Japanese engineers used to perfect the design of the Tokyo subway system, and a vodka- and milk-based cocktail that’s a “celebration of the complexity of milk, but also of zapping things with a car battery”. It’s this creativity that has made him one the world’s most respected bartenders, with all his venues (including the intimate Seed Library in Shoreditch) winning prestigious awards. In 2022, Lyaness was named World’s Best Bar at the Tales of the Cocktail Spirited Awards, and in 2018 Chetiyawardana’s now-closed Hoxton bar, Dandelyan, was named the best bar in the world by World’s 50 Best.
Broadsheet wanted to know where London’s cocktail maverick spends his downtime – and found that he approaches it with the omnivorous spirit you’d expect.
What London bars are you excited about right now?
Having tried some of Angelos Bafas’s work at Soma, I was excited to see the work he’s been doing at Nipperkin, the late-night cocktail bar beneath the Japanese restaurant Niju in Mayfair. I also recently had some excellent drinks at his sake and cocktail bar Kioku in Whitehall. I’m always excited to see what the likes of Tayer & Elementary, Little Mercies and Viajante87 are doing.
What’s your go-to for a quick takeaway?
I don’t often do takeaway as I love the magic and hospitality of a restaurant, but I still love being able to pick up Turkish food in Dalston. Mangal 1, Cirrik 19 Numara Bos and Somine are all doing great selections that are quick and affordable.
Where do you head for a caffeine hit?
I really only drink tea, but I loved living next door to Allpress in Dalston, where you could hang out and get drinks and delicious brunch bites.
It’s date night. Where are you going?
Pre-dinner Martinis at somewhere like Waltz in Shoreditch or The Connaught, then somewhere intimate for dinner. For Italian, I’d go for Trullo or Brutto, and I also love Rita’s or Legado. Finally, a nightcap at Happiness Forgets or Newcomer Wines.
You have friends visiting from out of town – where are you taking them to show off London’s food scene?
I love going to FKA Black Axe Mangal or Planque with pals, but I think the likes of Bibi, Smoking Goat, and Anglothai really showcase how London is the best food city in the world.
If all you feel like is a glass of wine and a snack, where are you heading?
Noble Rot is always lovely for this, but I love that you can get ice-cream and a glass of wine together at The Dreamery – an Islington spot that’s by the same team as the Goodbye Horses wine bar across the road.
What’s a London hidden gem you think more people should know about?
I used to say Waltz, but it’s no longer a secret! A lot of people visiting London would miss spots like Towpath Cafe.
It’s time for a nightcap. Where do you suggest?
Three Sheets – either in Dalston, or in Soho.
What’s on your bucket list?
Lima as a city, Asador Etxebarri in the Basque region of Spain as a restaurant, and Three Horses, [a sherry-focused bar] in Melbourne.
@mrlyan
lyaness.com
@lyanessbar
Where Chefs Eat is a Broadsheet series in which London’s best chefs share their favourite places to eat.
