There’s something charming about Wonton Charlie’s in London Fields. The 18-seat, lunch-only noodle bar occupies a former ticket office next to London Fields Overground station, and the space still hints at that past life. Designed by Daytrip Studio (Oriole and Nightjar), it features the room’s original corrugated walls and ceiling, with arched windows that flood the space with light. As steaming bowls of wonton noodle soup hit the table, the glass clouds over, making it an ideal spot for people-watching as diners slurp. The main draw is the central counter, from where the open kitchen is in full view. Everything happens right in front of the diners, a deliberate choice to echo the buzz of Hong Kong noodle bars.
The team behind Wonton Charlie’s is 6 of 1, the restaurant group owned by Abhinav Malde and Frank Yeung that’s behind Peckham’s Mr Bao, Tooting’s Daddy Bao and Master Bao in Westfield Stratford City and Shepherd’s Bush. It marks their first move into Cantonese cuisine after a decade focused on Taiwanese food. The menu is intentionally short and built around one thing: its namesake wonton noodle soup. Diners can choose from three wonton fillings: pork, prawn or fish skin, and either chicken or fish broth. Optional toppings include fish balls and crispy fish skin. For something less soupy, diners can ask for their bowl lo mein-style, with noodles dressed in a fragrant mix of soy, ginger and garlic.
“We know about the noodle thickness,” Malde tells Broadsheet, referring to feedback from customers and social media since opening – some have questioned the “authenticity” of the venture, including the noodle circumference which is slightly larger than what’s typically found in Cantonese wonton noodle soup.
“It’s worth noting we make everything ourselves, from the noodles to the soup to the fish balls,” says Malde. “We’re waiting for the thinner noodle machine attachment to arrive from Japan, but it’s taking a while. We care about the flavour, the texture and trying to do things right. We’re very open and happy to have conversations so we can keep learning, and we’re always trying to improve.”
The soups may look simple, but there’s a lot of work behind them. Noodles are made daily by hand using high-gluten flour, lye water and egg yolks, and passed through a machine to achieve the right amount of chew. Broths simmer for hours before service. The chicken soup base is made with chicken bones, carrots, onion, garlic, bay leaves and chicken powder, then strained through muslin to achieve the clarity typical in Hong Kong.
Drinks are grab-and-go from the fridge, which is stocked with classic Cantonese favourites like Pocari Sweat (a sweet “ion supply” drink), sour plum tea, lemon tea and local beers, alongside hot tea on the house. The team plans to expand beyond lunch service, but for now is focused on refining the small menu.
“I don’t think we’re sick of wonton noodle soups yet,” Malde says, laughing. “When we were researching, we ate a lot of wonton noodle soups in Hong Kong with Yeung’s dad, who’s from there. We want to celebrate and replicate that Hong Kong spirit in London. Being part of the local community is a core part of our values. We want to be a tiny, steaming noodle shop where people can slurp noodles, be fed and be on their way, with people always coming and going.”
Wonton Charlie’s
392–393 Mentmore Terrace, E8 3PN
Hours:
Thu to Sat 11am–3pm
