At a discreet, petite townhouse in Belgravia, chef Tom Aikens cooks dishes from his memories and past. Set in a two-storey space flooded with soft, natural light and squidgy, sofa-like seating, Muse sets the stage for a tasting menu built around formative moments from the chef’s life and career.
Served with the flourish you’d expect from the youngest British chef to win two Michelin stars – at just 26, during his tenure as head chef at Pied-à-Terre – one highlight includes a beef tartare inspired by one of Aiken’s mentors, Pierre Koffman, who spread the classic French dish on a baguette for breakfast every morning.
As with many high-profile chefs, Aikens’s schedule leaves little room for long, leisurely meals about town. Still, there’s always time for coffee between the school run and service, as well as the odd Monday night off – so, we quizzed him on his favourite spots around the capital.
What’s exciting you about London’s restaurant scene right now?
I think London is one of the most diverse capitals in the world in terms of the different cuisines that we have. We’re so multicultural in London, and that really shows in the restaurants we have. Yes, we go through trends of countries or origins or themes – obviously French restaurants are big at the minute – but I just think that it’s exciting that we have such a broad spectrum, from high-end Michelin-starred places all the way down to very casual, informal eateries. And the creativity isn’t just in the food; it’s in the interiors, how they look.
Where’s your go-to for a quick takeaway dinner?
I wouldn’t say I really do quick takeaway dinners because my schedule doesn’t allow it. I’m at Muse Tuesday to Friday, Saturday is family and kids, Sunday the restaurant’s closed, and then Monday is my work catch-up day. If I go out, it’s usually Monday evening. I’ll sometimes go to Josephine Bouchon in Fulham, or Dorian. Sadly London is quite limited now for Monday openings.
Where’s your favourite coffee spot?
I go to Hagen. It’s a Danish coffee shop, there’s quite a few of them now in my area. There’s one near Muse on the other side of Belgrave Square, and there are also branches in Pimlico and South Ken. If I’m doing the school run or on my bike, I’ll stop in.
I have to say, I almost had to take a step back the other day, because I had my first £6.10 coffee. I was shocked! It was a coffee shop from Dubai [Voyage Lounge] on the Brompton Road. I knew it had been a car showroom and I wondered, “Who can afford the rent there?” The coffee was smaller than your normal flat white or a latte, as well.
It’s date night. Where are you going?
I would go to Dorian. I like Max [Coen], he’s a great chef, very talented, and very humble. They’re serving really good food. And as I said, Claude Bosi – he’s a friend – and Josephine is very good. As a chef, I want to go somewhere that’s doing tasty, well-executed food. Plus, at Josephine, I can be in and out within an hour.
You have friends visiting. Where are you taking them?
Josephine or Dorian, definitely. I’ve also been to Canteen in Notting Hill, which is very good. Or The Fat Badger – that’s more of a set menu, not quite fine dining but five courses – it’s good value for money, that’s a nice place to go as well.
Your favourite breakfast spot?
I don’t really do breakfast anymore as I do intermittent fasting, but if I was going to go out for breakfast it would be somewhere where I could get a good pastry, so probably Layla Bakery in Notting Hill. They do a really good cinnamon and cardamom bun, so I’d get something like that with a good coffee.
What’s the best place for a long, lazy lunch?
I’d probably go Straker’s by Tom Straker. It’s casual, nice, laid back, the food’s good. Tom’s a talented chef and I like his style of food.
Where do you buy your groceries?
I live in the borough of Chelsea and Kensington, but generally on the weekends I’m out of London. If I am in London there are two places I will go. On Pavilion Road there’s Natoora for all your fruit and veg, and there’s also a fish shop there called The Sea, The Sea. On Chelsea Green there’s The Chelsea Fishmonger, which is always great, and the fruit and veg shop there called Andreas.
I prefer going to individual grocers to get good produce when it’s in season. I don’t like going supermarket shopping because so much is out of season. If I’m on my bike going to work, I’ll sometimes stop in and pick up what looks good.
Is there a hidden gem in London more people should know about?
There’s a new butcher that has just opened in Belgravia called Parson’s Nose, that’s been very good. And then there’s Chestnut Bakery just off Elizabeth Street, which is excellent.
What’s your bucket list restaurant?
I’ve been wanting to go to L’Ambroisie in Paris since my twenties, and I’m finally going in a few weeks. I used to work in Paris in back in ’93, and because I lived quite close to le Marais – in a place called Place de la République, near Gare du Nord – I would walk around the area and see this place, a three [Michelin-starred, two-starred as of 2026] restaurant by Pierre Gagnaire.
