There’s something beautiful about a meal with friends that gets a little chaotic. And that’s exactly what chef and columnist Gizzi Erskine is celebrating with Messy Lunch, her new YouTube series with restaurant critic co-host Leonie Cooper (Time Out). Each high-energy episode sees the pair sitting down at a buzzy London restaurant with big-name musicians to chat music and food. They’ve grilled Blur’s Graham Coxon and Rose Elinor Dougall (The Waeve) over gildas and Martinis at Town and caught up with The Hives’ Mike Vigilante and his partner and LA punk musician Kate Clover at Island in Mare Street Market.
As a lifelong Londoner – and a chef for more than two decades – Erskine has witnessed enormous change in the capital’s restaurant scene. And while she celebrates new openings like Tiella on Columbia Road, she’ll always return to E Pellicci, and take friends to The Ritz … if she really likes them.
Where do you go for a messy lunch?
Otto’s French Restaurant in the middle of Farringdon. It has everything one could possibly need. Incredible Martinis, amazing red wines, all the indulgent foods, the feeling of hedonism and some bonkers armour that Otto makes you wear. Always get the pressed duck. One time I went with friends and we were so messy that one of us signed the welcome book with her boob, printed in duck blood. That to me is the end of a good lunch!
The best place for a messy lunch is somewhere…
With naughty people. I do think that it needs to be a glossy room; a place that you want to stay and they don’t limit your booking, with good cocktails, a strong wine list, light but delicious food and lots of time. My favourite places we ate in during Messy Lunch were Town with Rose Dougal and Graham Coxon from The Waeve, and Legado with The Damned.
Messy Lunch is all about food and music. Which London restaurants have the best soundtracks?
The best restaurant soundtrack of all time was Black Axe Mangal, as it was the one place that played metal and punk loud and proud. Sadly, London lost it after 10 solid years, at Christmas.
What’s your go-to spot for a quick takeaway dinner?
I spent the last 30 years living in and around Dalston, and didn’t think Turkish food got much better … until I moved to Walthamstow. There is a terrific Turkish restaurant called Güneş, at the bottom of our road, and its one of the best ocakbaşları I’ve ever had outside of Istanbul. I eat there once every 10 days at least.
You need a quick lunch on the go – where are you grabbing a bite?
Without sounding like a total food snob, I really struggle with almost all of the grab and go businesses, so it really depends on where I am. But if I’m ever working in the Edgware Road area, I plan my day around getting a shawarma wrap from Ranoush Juice. Lamb, all the salads, extra garlic and chilli sauce.
It’s date night. Where are you heading?
A great restaurant with a bar or a corner table. [My musician partner] Matt Turner and I are that smoochy, gooey-eyed couple that makes you want to puke, so the closer we can get to each other the better. We had a really delicious time at Rambutan in Borough while Christmas shopping, but we also love the bars at Bentley’s, Barrafina and Dorian.
Where would you take friends who are visiting out of town?
If I really like them, I would take them to The Ritz. It’s the perfect combination of chintz, cool Britannia and opulence. John Williams’s food has traditional technique but British ingredients, and is just such a treat. I also try and take everyone to have some kind of St John experience, whether it’s the full dinner or a simple doughnut.
What about if you’re just after a quick drink and a snack?
I think the small plates we have at Mare Street Market are so great for sharing; they’ve been made for snacking with drinking in mind. The chicken kyiv nuggets fly out, as do the Korean chicken wings and the prawn and boudin noir dumplings with bisque and makrut lime oil.
What’s your top recommendation for breakfast?
The place I frequent most, because I work so close and lived in the area for years and year, is E Pellicci on Bethnal Green Road. I know it definitely doesn’t need any more attention, but it is so prevalent in my life that [the team] feels like family at this stage.
Where do you buy your groceries?
I live in Walthamstow Village and am so lucky to have this tiny village high street two minutes from my house. Eat17 is Walthamstow’s “Posh Spar” that has a bakery, a butcher, and a cheese and charcuterie shop, and holds loads of exciting small deli brands. Across the road we have Bora & Sons, the best greengrocer on earth, that stocks really beautiful and interesting produce. It’s almost problematic as I don’t need to leave the area. It even has a fish market on a Friday.
Is there a hidden gem in London you think more people should know about?
I’m not sure it’s much of a secret, but the world is going to be a much better place with the inclusion of the Italian trattoria on Columbia Road: Tiella, by Dara Klein. I lived there for years and I am now furious I don’t have this on my doorstep, but delighted for everyone else as it’s the epitome of perfect local restaurant.
What’s your favourite sweet treat in London?
I cannot walk past Santa Nata without getting a warm, perfectly crisp, caramelised and gooey pastel de nata.
If you could travel to any restaurant in the world, what would it be?
Australia. I can’t believe I haven’t been. It’s been on my bucket list since I was at catering school almost 25 years ago. Most of my inspiration was based around people like Neil Perry in those days, but now I’m desperate to try Josh Niland, Dan Hong and Lilly Trewartha’s food and restaurants.
Looking closer to home, is there anything happening in London’s restaurant scene that’s exciting you at the moment?
Restaurants are having an increasingly tough time, and this is now happening alongside the grimiest time we’ve ever experienced politically. As Londoners, we’re constantly fighting back against the government’s bananas financial problems, as well as a completely wrong anti-multicultural narrative. We keep opening restaurants from small regions and diasporas from around the world, which people flock to and that make up the heart of London’s culinary empire. It’s a beautiful thing and makes me proud to be a born and bred Londoner.
