The Old Queens Head in Islington means a lot to Tom Budakan. The Hackney native went to school down the road from the pub, and spent “countless hours” DJing there as an adult. Soon, the chef – formerly part of lauded pizza crew Dough Hands – will head up his own pizza restaurant, Hot Saint, inside it.
“It definitely feels like a full circle moment,” he says. “The Old Queens Head was my second home for about 10 years, so it feels so amazing to be stepping out on my own for the first time here.”
The Old Queens Head has a strong Sunday roast reputation – but from February 16, it will also be serving Budakan’s New York-style pizza daily. “My time at Dough Hands taught me so much. Hot Saint is more about me placing my personal touch on the pizzas and getting truly creative with the toppings and flavour profiles.”
Hot Saint won’t be a place for Italian pizza purists: the Spicy Hawaiian is an unconventional combination of San Marzano tomato, fior di latte, guanciale (cured pork cheek or jowl), smoked ham hock, pineapple, smoked chilli and jalapenos. The Vodka Pesto will see pesto, stracciatella and parmesan on a punchy vodka sauce base. There’s also the Meatball Ricotta, Classic or Double Pepperoni, Shrooms and a simple Cheese Pie, which might just be Budakan’s favourite. “I mean, I’m a marg girly – there’s nothing better than a really, really good cheese pie to me,” he says. “And the pesto and vodka sauce is just comfort on pizza.”
Getting the dough right took time. The base is made using high-protein Canadian flour for structure, with just enough rye to give it a slightly nutty flavour and the right amount of chew. The dough is fermented for a minimum of 48 hours, resulting in a crisp yet light crust. Like at Dough Hands, there’ll be a range of dips for those crusts (garlic ranch, hot honey and smoky chilli). There’ll also be two sandwiches (spicy chicken parm and meatball) and for dessert, banana miso soft serve.
It’s now 20 years since the Columbo Group (The Parakeet, The Jazz Cafe) took over The Old Queen’s Head, and launching Hot Saint Pizza feels like a fitting way to mark the occasion.
“The Old Queen’s Head always draws a fun crowd, so I’m hoping to continue with that,” says Budakan. “If you love good honest food and great vibes you’ll be welcome.”
Hot Saint Pizza
The Old Queens Head, 44 Essex Rd, N1 8LN
Hours:
Mon to Thu 4pm–10pm
Fri & Sat midday–9.30pm
Sun midday–7pm
