Over the past couple of decades, few have done more than Bilbao-born chef Nieves Barragán Mohacho to introduce Londoners to a breadth of Spanish cuisine far beyond tortilla, paella or croquetas. First, it was as executive chef at the Hart brothers’ beloved Barrafina group, then at the helm of Sabor, which has held a Michelin star since opening in 2018. Yet the 80-cover Legado – which has just opened in Shoreditch’s Montacute Yards – promises an even deeper dive into regional Spanish cuisine.
“I always wanted to have a space where I can play a bit more with lesser-known Spanish dishes and ingredients,” Barragán Mohacho, the restaurant’s founder and head chef, tells Broadsheet. “The diversity of our food is so special. There is so much variation across the country, and I hope to show a bit of every corner of Spain.”
In the days before opening, Barragán Mohacho is unflustered as the Windrush line arcs overhead and boxes of Carlingford oysters are ferried indoors. “It looks just like I pictured it in my head – homely, relaxed, not too industrial,” she says, pointing out the space’s terracotta tiling, warm wood and Castilian decorative elements.
As promised, Legado’s vast open kitchen reads like a culinary map of Spain. Near the entrance an iced seafood cabinet showcases the catch used in dishes stemming from Catalonia and the Balearics. Then there are traditional copper pots for Galician-style octopus; a fryer section for the frituras associated with Cadiz; a rice station that nods to Valencian cuisine; and two cavernous cast-iron ovens, imported from third-generation artisans just north of Madrid, for roasting Segovia’s signature cochinillo (suckling pig). “Every time I travel, I always discover new ways of doing things,” Barragán Mohacho says. “Being a chef is never-ending – I often feel the older I get the less I know, which means you never get bored.”
With an emphasis on whole-animal butchery and Spain’s coastal cuisine, some of the restaurant’s most intriguing dishes, according to Barragán Mohacho, include the “incredible” frito mallorquin from Mallorca (chopped lamb heart, kidneys and livers pan-fried with fennel, chilli and red pepper); the confit lobster with fried egg; and Cordoban oxtail, served in small pieces to eat by hand – something she hopes will resonate with London’s increasingly curious diners.
“At Sabor, I realised people were starting to question where certain dishes came from and were willing to try something different,” she says. “More diners want to better understand the nuances of regional food and wine, which made me think they were ready for more Spanish cooking.”
She’s particularly excited about the no-reservation Taberna bar, which spills out from the entrance onto an outdoor terrace. “I don’t think there’s anything like Taberna in London, in terms of the tapas we’re going to serve,” she says, describing dishes that range from Basque tacos stuffed with chistorra sausage and goat’s curd to a classic Riojan pintxo of prawn and mushrooms grilled on the plancha with olive oil, garlic, parsley and lemon juice.
This, plus a low-intervention wine list that spans forgotten indigenous varietals, vintage cava, vermouth and one of London’s biggest selections of sherry – a drink Barragán Mohacho says is still underrated – place Legado among the year’s most exciting launches, adding further momentum to a neighbourhood undergoing a new lease of life. “I feel that Shoreditch is flying again and there are lots of great restaurants here,” she says. Legado’s neighbours include Clove Club, Tomos Parry’s Brat, and the recently relocated cult Thai restaurant Singburi.
“London is still one of the world’s best destinations for gastronomy, with top restaurants spanning all styles within less than half a kilometre. That really keeps you on your toes and trying to do the best you can.”
Legado
1C Montacute Yards, London, E1 6HU
Hours:
Legado
Tue to Sat midday–2.30pm, 5.30pm–10.30pm
Taberna
Tue to Sat midday–10.30pm
