Ten years is a very long time in restaurant years. Running a successful restaurant for a decade is a huge milestone – particularly when its owners were just 24 when they opened it. Chef Ben Marks and restaurateur Matthew Emmerson co-founded Perilla in November 2016, at 24 years old. It was the culmination of a series of supper clubs in Clapton which gained a cult following; by then, Marks had also worked at Noma in Copenhagen, as well as Claridge’s and now-closed fine dining institution The Square.
Since then, Perilla has established itself as a neighbourhood favourite and destination restaurant alike. Its focus on elevated modern European fare in a relaxed setting has made it both beloved and influential; and in February 2024, Marks and Emmerson co-founded its sister restaurant, Morchella, in Exmouth Market, serving Mediterranean fare with old world wines in an unpretentious setting.
When he’s not in the kitchen, Marks loves exploring the many options around Seven Sisters, where he lives – but he’ll travel across town for something special, too. We asked Marks to share his top London restaurants, bars, food shops and more.
Is there anything happening in London’s restaurant scene that’s getting you excited at the moment?
I guess it has been going this way for a while now, but the desire for more casual and less stuffy dining. I can't stand a formal environment whilst I'm trying to relax, and there's a real movement towards a relaxed atmosphere without sacrificing the quality of the food and wine. I think Wildflowers near Victoria is a great example of this. Detailed, expert cooking in an informal, familiar environment.
Where are some of your other favourite spots in or around Exmouth Market at the moment?
We are absolutely spoilt for choice in Exmouth Market. For lunch, I’d head to the London institution that is Moro. For a casual eat, the burgers at Black Bear are perfect. For dinner, I’d head to Jackson Boxer’s beautiful new spot, Vesper, and I’d finish the night with a Negroni at Cafe Kick.
What’s your go-to for a quick takeaway dinner?
I live in Seven Sisters, and there's an incredible mix of different cultures and cuisines. My absolute favourite is the jerk pork at Peppers & Spice on West Green Road. Failing that, it's fish’n’chips from Micky’s Chippy in Dalston.
You want to go all-out – where are you booking?
I recently ate at Impala, and I thought it was one of the most unique, exciting and tasty restaurant experiences I've ever had. The pistachio and date tart, their sole dessert on the menu, is possibly the best pudding I have ever eaten.
Where do you go to eat if you also want to have fun?
I love The Plimsoll in Finsbury Park for fantastic pub food and a few pints after.
If you have friends visiting from out of town, where are you taking them?
I always like to go to St John Bread and Wine in Spitalfields when someone is visiting from out of town. For me, it's an absolute London institution.
Where would you go for a good drink and a snack?
Wildflowers have opened Bar Flor upstairs. It's a great room, and they serve delicious pintxos and drinks.
What’s your favourite spot for a perfect date night?
I’d go to Sally Abé's new spot, Teal. It's a beautiful, intimate neighbourhood restaurant with delicious, classic cooking.
Where do you buy your groceries?
There are some great Turkish food shops around me in Seven Sisters. I love all the jars of beans and pickles and the different condiments they sell.
Is there a hidden gem in London you think is special and more people should know about?
I wouldn't necessarily say it's a hidden gem, but I do think Rogues should get more attention. It's a truly independent restaurant built by Zac [Whittle] and Fred [Sheen], with a real integrity to it. The food is great, and the vibes match it.
What’s your favourite sweet treat in London?
Beku ice-cream. It's the most insane Indonesian ice cream. They don't have a permanent spot yet, but they're doing pop-ups around London. If you can find it, GET IT. They do so many interesting, unique flavours, but my favourite is the mango, passionfruit and chilli.
