In a capacious white space in Somerset House, Eleanor Henson transforms seasonal produce into elegant, nourishing dishes. Henson has been working under Spring restaurateur and chef Skye Gyngell for several years, and was recently appointed culinary director of both Spring and Heckfield Place, a luxury hotel in Hampshire with a farm. She’s continuing Gyngell’s dedication to cooking with the seasons and celebrating what the soil turns up. Her personal dining choices embrace a similar ethos: restaurants, cafes and bars that are produce-driven, low-intervention and work with small producers. Here, she shares her favourite spots to dine in London, from a minimal-waste pizzeria to a West End stalwart.
What’s exciting you about London’s restaurant scene right now?
More chefs are seeking out small producers, championing regenerative farming and cooking in rhythm with the seasons. It’s a quiet but profound shift – I love seeing restaurants working with seasonal produce and collaborating directly with UK farms using low-intervention and zero-waste techniques.
What’s your go-to for a quick takeaway dinner?
Sodo Pizza’s seasonal sourdough pizzas made with heritage grain, local veggies, house-fermented pickles and kombucha – all with ethical sourcing and minimal waste – are a real go-to for me when I’m craving something nourishing but don’t have time to cook. Spring is famous for its produce. Where else do you rate for its approach to ingredients?
Petersham Nurseries in Richmond. Their kitchen garden is a constant reminder of how beauty and flavour can coexist. There, ingredients are allowed to speak – a plate of broad beans, young peas, mint and ricotta, perhaps – assembled with care, but never fussed over.
What’s your favourite coffee spot?
Italo in Vauxhall is my local. There’s something deeply comforting about the place: shelves lined with Italian pantry staples, mismatched chairs. Whether I’m grabbing a quick espresso or lingering over lunch, Italo always feels like a little pocket of calm in the city.
It’s date night. Where are you going?
I’m going to The Canton Arms for date night because it’s warm, low-lit and effortlessly romantic: the kind of place where the food is rich, generous, and deeply satisfying. Think slow-cooked dishes, proper sauces and perfectly made sides. It’s the kind of menu that invites sharing, lingering and ordering just one more plate.
What’s your special-occasion pick?
For a special occasion, I’d choose Quo Vadis. It has that perfect balance of old-school charm and modern, produce-led cooking. The menu is always thoughtful and seasonal, full of simple dishes done exceptionally well. It feels intimate and grown-up, but never too formal – just quietly special in all the right ways.
Where do you take out-of-towners?
I’m taking friends to The Waterman’s Arms for lunch because it’s the perfect end to a walk along the river: relaxed, seasonal food in a cosy spot that feels properly local. The menu is beautifully sourced, and the space is relaxed but full of character. It’s the kind of place where you can have a proper, generous lunch, linger over a glass of wine, share a few plates and feel genuinely looked after.
Where do you love to go for a good drink and a snack?
40 Maltby Street. You can sit with a glass of natural wine and a few small plates – perhaps something fermented, or a perfectly dressed leaf. It’s the ideal place to catch up with friends after work.
Your favourite breakfast spot?
Towpath cafe. Their breakfasts are modest but deeply comforting – maybe soft-boiled eggs with anchovy butter, or a slice of treacle tart if the mood calls for sweetness.
For a long, lazy lunch, where are you going?
The River Café in Hammersmith is a classic – its longstanding commitment to seasonal Italian produce from local and organic suppliers makes it a truly delicious place to spend a long afternoon sitting on its sun-dappled terrace. Everything feels joyful and deeply seasonal.
Where do you buy your groceries?
Natoora is unbeatable for fresh, farm-direct seasonal produce. Their produce is sometimes imperfect, but always full of flavour. I love knowing where things come from – who grew the courgettes, what soil the peaches were picked from. Their commitment to growers is beautiful and rare.
Is there a hidden gem in London more people should know about?
Eleven98 in Walthamstow is a small-scale chef’s table that sources 100 per cent of ingredients from within [east London]: it’s all foraged, grown, or produced locally. It’s hyper-local fine dining with a community-first ethos. A true hidden gem.
What’s your favourite sweet treat in London?
Jolene bakery uses wild-farmed grains and regenerative sourcing. Their custard tarts and seasonal fruit pastries are truly incredible – and you can taste the difference in the flour and butter quality.
What’s your bucket list restaurant?
Blue Hill at Stone Barns [in New York state, US], Dan Barber’s temple to regenerative agriculture and farm-to-table innovation. They’re pioneering closed-loop systems and redefining what sustainable fine dining looks like globally.
