Sessions Arts Club unequivocally boasts one of London’s most eye-catching dining rooms. While the room helps draw in diners, behind the scenes the restaurant’s chefs plate up food that is equally striking – beef on sourdough is artfully crowned with a nasturtium leaf; a dab of luminescent orange roe stands out against a golden saffron sauce draped over cod. Responsible for what’s on the plate is Fenella Brereton, who’s worked the pans at Spring and Little Duck The Picklery, but who arrived at a career in cooking via art – the perfect trajectory for a restaurant that places such value on both forms.
“I came into cooking by exploring food through sculpture, art and collaboration, so becoming a chef felt like the most intuitive extension of that creative practice,” she tells Broadsheet. “What I love about cooking is the collective input that goes into running a kitchen; there’s always a sense of collaboration, energy and knowledge exchange.”
Below, Brereton shares her own knowledge with Broadsheet – specifically about the restaurants she rates, the dining experiences she can’t get enough of and the bakery she always returns to.
Hi Fenella! What’s exciting you about London’s restaurant and dining scene right now?
It’s always reassuring and exciting to see new spots opening and people continuing to take risks and create something new. It’s a forever growing community.
Sessions is known for beautifully fusing art and dining. Which other restaurants do this well in London?
I had an unforgettable omakase at Takahashi [in Wimbledon]. The plating felt like a form of art, but it was the whole experience that stayed with me. From the moment you arrive to being served tea at the end, everything felt like a dance, there was such intentional care in the way the food was made and how the experience was hosted. It felt very humble and considered, where every detail had a purpose without ever feeling forced.
Which other restaurants around Clerkenwell do you love?
We’re really spoilt for choice here in Clerkenwell. St John, Bouchon Racine, Brutto, Luca. I often find myself going to Brutto for a solo bowl of pasta, it’s so, so good. There’s something very comforting about sitting at the bar and enjoying a bowl of pasta on your own.
What’s a London restaurant you always return to?
I’ve probably been to Kiln more than anywhere else. I just find myself craving it.
Do you have a favourite bakery?
La Bottega Del Pane [in Wimbledon] is a special one for me. I don’t live so close anymore, but it’s still on my list to go back and say hello to Rocco [Tanzarella, owner]. His chocolate and baking are the best. It’s one of those places where you always leave with something you didn’t plan on buying.
Where do you head for a great drink and a snack?
For a drink, it’s The Hermit’s Cave in Camberwell, then across the road to Falafel and Shawarma. I hate to think how many [wraps] I’ve consumed over the past decade!
Where do you bring out of towners?
Kiln, obviously. By that point I’m due my fix, too. I love taking friends who’ve never been and watching them get hooked.
What’s a hidden gem more Londoners should know about?
Lao Dao! A special little spot on Walworth Road serving Xinjiang food from north-west China. The cumin-spiced lamb skewers!
