Late last year, restaurant group 6 of 1 – behind Peckham’s Mr Bao and Daddy Bao in Tooting, among others – launched Wonton Charlie’s, a lunch-only wonton noodle bar in London Fields steeped in Cantonese tradition. Now, it’s doubling down and opening Cafe Kowloon out the back on February 4. Together, the venues encapsulate Hong Kong’s dynamic food scene: Wonton Charlie’s is old-school and nostalgic, while Cafe Kowloon brings to life the city’s bold, modern pulse.
The diner is named after Hong Kong’s bustling, diverse Kowloon district. Before launch, the group sent nine chefs to Hong Kong to dive into its dai pai dongs (street stalls), cha chaan tengs (diners that blend Chinese and Western food) and cocktail bars, and experience the city’s spirit first-hand. “Hong Kong is non-stop, always evolving. Everyone has their own twist [on its food],” says co-founder Frank Yeung, whose father is from Hong Kong.
Meals come family-style, with lazy susans built into some of the tables. Heading up the kitchen is Ferdinand “Budgie” Montoya (Sarap). Start with street-food staples: scallops with glass noodles and XO sauce, curry fish ball skewers and beef tendons served two ways. There’s also prawn toast on a custom loaf from neighbouring E5 Bakehouse, a smoky rotisserie half chicken cooked over charcoal, and typhoon shelter tofu with salted egg yolk – a veggie take on the Hong Kong classic typhoon shelter crab, which is traditionally stir-fried in a punchy chilli and garlic sauce. Hong Kong-style French toast filled with peanut butter crème, drizzled with condensed milk, and topped with roasted peanuts is a dessert highlight.
At its other venues, 6 of 1 has built a reputation for its solid cocktail programme – and it even has a bar in Tooting, Good Measure. This approach has been carried forward to Cafe Kowloon, with a list of drinks inspired by Hong Kong flavours and ingredients. There’s the layered Kowloon Classic with cognac, vermouth, banana and chocolate absinthe, and the smooth Pocari Sweat, a milk punch with tequila and yuzu. The wine list is curated by retailer Theatre of Wine, highlighting small producers and with a strong by-the-glass showing.
Local designer Daytrip Studio’s (The Lavery, Nightjar, Swift) interiors also nod to the team’s journey through Hong Kong. Diners can sink into intimate booths or perch at one of 10 counter seats looking directly over the open kitchen. It’s all centered around a striking jade-coloured back bar, softly illuminated by a neon glow.
Mostly, the team wants Cafe Kowloon to be fun, an ambition buttressed by an impressive sound system built for DJ sets at table level – not just playlists, but carefully curated music that takes diners on a journey. “We want the vibe to build, to surprise and to leave you buzzing, having had the best night out,” says co-founder Abhinav Malde.
Cafe Kowloon
392–393 Mentmore Terrace E8 3PH
Hours:
Wed to Sat 6pm–11pm
