Shortly before the pandemic, chef Clare Coghill returned from London to her native Isle of Skye, intending to stay for a few weeks to wait things out. She’d only recently opened Cafe Cuil in Dalston; but the Scottish island’s mesmerising vistas and incredible produce drew her back for good. She relocated Cafe Cuil to Carbost in 2022, serving brunches that showcase the island’s extraordinary ingredients.
Dishes are inspired by her travels and the Gaelic language she grew up speaking, with favourites including an indulgent Lochalsh beef brisket rarebit and scotch pancakes topped with baked plums, cardamom crumble and candied ginger mascarpone.
According to the chef, whose debut Cafe Cuil Cookbook was published last year, the island is an exciting place to be at the moment. “We are spoiled with dramatic landscapes and incredible food, and have a pretty cool scene of young creatives who live up here,” Coghill tells Broadsheet. “It’s a great place to feel connected to the land around you, whether that be through the ingredients you cook with or the culture you celebrate.”
Here, she shares her guide to eating, drinking, shopping and exploring on Skye.
A stay worth travelling for
One of my favourite hotels on Skye is Kinloch Lodge on the Sleat peninsula. It is set in a stunning location with gorgeous interiors and incredible food. It’s where I had my first ever tasting menu! Alternatively, you can always hire a wee cottage on the edge of Skye where you can see some of the best sunsets in the world. Mint Croft in Geary is one of my favourites, with the Stein Inn just a few minutes’ drive away for top shellfish.
A restaurant for a taste of Skye
Edinbane Lodge is a beautiful restaurant run by Calum Montgomery. He has a Taste of Skye tasting menu that celebrates local produce.
An old faithful for a memorable meal
My absolute go-to for a special meal is Scorrybreac in Portree. It’s run by my friend Cal, who forages for a lot of his ingredients and turns them into incredible plates of food. We’re so lucky to have a bunch of young local chefs doing amazing things.
Where to go for seafood
The Stein Inn is one of the best spots on the island for local seafood. They source all their shellfish directly off the boat that lands just outside the pub, and it’s served simply, usually with plenty of garlic butter and bread. Get the langoustines, you won’t regret it.
Somewhere to settle in for a long lunch
Cafe Cuil, of course! We seem to have become the long lunch capital of Skye, and you’ll often find tables of local families and visitors alike spending hours eating and chatting on a lazy Sunday. Cuil is Scottish Gaelic for cosy noost or nest, so we really try and live by that and make guests feel welcome to hang out.
A pub for a pint and live music
The Old Inn in Carbost is the best pub on Skye and, luckily for us, it’s our local. You’ll often find the Cafe Cuil team there having a post-work pint after a busy day. Every Thursday night they have live traditional music by brilliant local musicians.
A walk worth checking the tides for
To really get the most out of Skye you have to go outdoors. There are some incredible walks and scenery to behold all around the island, but my favourite walk has to be to Oronsay island. It’s a tidal island that can only be accessed at low tide, but once you get there you can find a private white beach, coastal cliffs and incredible views of the Cuillins. It’s a locals’ secret!
Where to take home something made on Skye
There are some beautiful makers and shops on Skye. Some of my favourites are Skyeskyns, who make incredible sheepskin rugs, and also Something to Cry About studio, which makes Gaelic folklore-inspired ceramics.
