Denim is timeless, sure; but in recent years, the humble pair of jeans has undergone an attitude adjustment. Once a stalwart of casual dressing, it’s now ubiquitous in just about every social scenario, from the office to candlelit dinners. And with so many high-end and homegrown brands, the choice is staggering, including off-duty cuts and raw denim styles that require breaking in, like a good pair of leather loafers.
“Each season, brands look for a new way to reinvent denim,” editorial stylist Way Perry tells Broadsheet. This season, we’re seeing a shift away from the oversized Y2K look towards sharper tailoring, avant-garde washes and classic shapes from the ’80s. On the runway, Khaite debuted a wearable spin on the skinny jean with slim-straight fits, Givenchy showed elegant cigarette-esque legs, and at Jonathan Anderson’s Dior, deeper washes and embellished finishes reigned supreme.
London-based labels, too, have been looking to the past, taking cues from some of history’s most iconic denim wearers. Ahead, the key silhouettes, and brands to know, for AW26.
Structured Tailoring
If there’s one denim note to take from this season, it's structure. Cult London label With Nothing Underneath put this into practice with its debut denim range, featuring three timeless shapes: Crawford, Fawcett and Stevie, inspired by their namesakes and ’90s off-duty icons like Kate Moss and Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy.
“We’re definitely seeing a lot more structure on the market, as opposed to baggy or barrel shapes, which helps add a level of polish,” explains founder Pip Durell. “Non-stretch denim is the key to getting this right. Our Fawcett and Crawford shapes are made from 100 per cent organic cotton, which helps give weight, that real cinch at the waist, and straight lines through the leg. It creates a super flattering silhouette.”
The straight, not skinny, leg
You can breathe a sigh of relief; the skinny jean hasn’t quite made a comeback. Instead, celebrity stylist Jenny Kennedy explains that we’re seeing an “almost skinny” silhouette, with a tapered shape. This style is central to the latest collection from Dala, the ready-to-wear brand known for its rigid denim.
“This season, we looked at old photographs of ‘90s model Bridget Hall: her straight-leg jeans, the washes, and the ease with which she wore them,” explains creative director Rosie Ingleby. She singles out the brand’s Slim Straight in Deep Indigo Rigid Denim, for its tailored feel: “It’s not difficult to wear, and the colour develops its own character over time, creating your own patina. It’s a pair that will stay in your wardrobe forever.”
Indigo washes
Some of the most interesting developments in denim lie in the washes and finishes, with rich indigo tones marking a break from the washed-out styles we’ve seen recently. On the runway, Stella McCartney tapped into the ‘80s prep school aesthetic and sent inky blue straight legs down the catwalk.
Back at home, however, we are looking at ELV Denim – known for its signature contrast-colour mid-seam jeans, created from wholly upcycled materials. As founder Anna Foster tells Broadsheet, deep washes have always been a staple of her brand, but they’re particularly fitting for AW26. “There’s the Talbot, which is comfort but considered, with two shades of dark indigo, and a relaxed fit. It’s made for a Sunday roast, so you still look effortlessly chic.” But there’s also room to be more experimental, which is why ELV has created the Dalston Wide Leg Painted Jeans. “It’s a dark wash, wide leg with hand-painted splatters, and it stops people in the street. With a chunky sweater and boots, it's perfect for the weekend. With a crisp white shirt and a heel, it's dinner-ready.”
Mid-rise fits
Jeans have been getting lower and lower since their high-waisted heyday, but this season, stylist Oisín Boyd has noticed a shift in where they’re worn on the body. “For AW26, they’re comfortably back at the hip, mid-rise, instead of being slung dangerously low, as they were during the peak of the Y2K revival.”
We know who does it best: Levi’s 501s, vintage or brand new. But newer brands, like Maksu, which has stores in Marylebone and on the King’s Road, are also embracing the trend. Maksu's first denim collection includes the Jamie, a more relaxed take on the classic mid-rise 501, in a medium-blue wash and 100 per cent cotton. It falls perfectly between the navel and hips.
