Even those with only a glancing interest in the culinary sphere will know the Roux name. French-born brothers Michel and Albert Roux spawned a London dynasty when they opened Mayfair’s Le Gavroche in 1967, which became the first UK restaurant to be awarded one, two and three Michelin stars. Albert’s son, Michel Roux Jr, took over the pans in 1991 and led the restaurant until it closed in 2024.
But London native Emily Roux – Michel Roux Jr’s daughter – forged her own path. She picked up kitchen roles in Paris and Monaco, where she met her now-husband Diego Ferrari while they were working at the three-Michelin-starred Hotel de Paris; it’s also where she turned her attention to patisserie. The couple returned to London and in 2018 opened their fine diner Caractere in a former Notting Hill pub. There, they blend Roux’s French heritage with Ferrari’s Italian background for an elegant menu of dishes that change with the seasons, walking the line between the refinement of a starred restaurant and a relaxed neighbourhood spirit.
Last year, Caractere was awarded its first Michelin star, giving Roux her own spot in London’s pantheon of top chefs. Here, she shares where she eats in London while not working the moulds and pastry cutters at Caractere, from comfort food to the ritziest of restaurants.
What’s happening on the food scene right now that’s getting you excited?
I am really getting into all the food podcasts that are emerging. They really give an insight to what is happening in our industry. Great conversations take place and I think it’s for the better.
Where do you head for a takeaway?
Eat-in or takeaway, I would get a char kway teow from C&R Cafe in Soho.
What’s your pick for a great lunch on the go?
It’s cold at the moment, so if I’m looking for something hot and nourishing, I go for ramen at Tonkotsu in Notting Hill or Kanada-Ya off Tottenham Court Road.
You are the pastry whiz at Caractere – but where do you go when you want someone else’s patisserie?
I would highly recommend Little Sourdough Kitchen bakery in Fulham. The pains au chocolat, croissants and danishes are scrumptious. Diego, my husband and business partner, is also addicted to their tiramisu.
It’s date night. Where are you booking?
Josephine. Hearty, simple yet delicious food.
Where do you head for a special occasion?
The Ritz is absolutely incredible. I went a couple of years ago for my birthday and adored it – a very special and unique moment.
Where would you take friends from out of town?
I recently had a wonderful dinner at Lita in Marylebone. It’s a fun and dynamic restaurant that I would definitely recommend to friends.
It’s been a long day and all you want is a drink and a snack. Where are you going?
Tappo Enoteca in Notting Hill. It has a fantastic range of wines, and great charcuterie and cheese boards.
Your favourite breakfast spot?
Home SW15 on Upper Richmond Road in Putney. We love to take our kids here. It feels homely, the staff are amazing and the food is everything you want on a weekend morning! The Messy Nessie [Saturday only] is something else: haggis, potato cake, bacon, black pudding and poached egg.
Where are you settling in for a long lunch?
Hide. The interior always wows me, and it’s a spot where you want to sit back, relax and take it all in.
Where do you buy your groceries?
We are lucky – we buy most of our fish and meat directly from the restaurant’s suppliers, HG Walter and Flying Fish. And we often go to Starry Mart in Fulham for Asian groceries.
Is there a hidden gem in London you wish more people knew about?
Hunan, an independent, family-run restaurant in Pimlico. No frills, simply delicious Taiwanese and Sichuan dishes. And no ordering is required – you choose between a smaller or longer blind tasting menu.
If you could visit any restaurant in the world, what would it be?
I still haven’t had the opportunity to try Noma. So that is still on my bucket list. And I would also love to go to Japan and experience omakase in Tokyo.
