Last year they brought Roman-style dining to Highbury with trattoria Lupa. Now, Carousel co-founder Ed Templeton, chef Naz Hassan (ex-Bibi and Pidgin) and actor Theo James are looking to north Italy for Lupa’s follow-up: Ornella.
Ornella will open in April on the Wilton Way corner formerly occupied by Fran’s, the contemporary caff by the team behind Wilton Way Deli and Wines, which closed last summer. It will focus on Milanese food, drawing on Hassan’s childhood and early cooking experiences in the northern Italian city – think plenty of butter, pasta and parmesan rather than the olive oil- and tomato-heavy cooking of the country’s south.
“When we were discussing the concept, we knew immediately that we had to give Naz the chance to cook the food of his home city,” Templeton said in a statement. “He’s exceptionally talented, as is his sous chef Sandro [Alessandro Boscolo]. We can’t wait to see how they channel their talent into another iconic city with another very strong culinary identity.”
At Ornella, that’ll mean dishes like mondeghili meatballs (meatballs traditionally made from leftover veal or beef and bolstered with mortadella and parmesan); penne alla vodka; and risotto alla Milanese – a golden risotto made with parmesan and saffron. Other highlights will include vitello tonnato (cold slices of veal topped with a tuna sauce); tagliatelle al burro e parmigiano (tagliatelle with butter and parmesan); and “elephant’s ear” cotoletta di vitello, a take on the classic breaded and fried veal dish in which the veal is thinner but very large in surface area. For desserts there’ll be millefoglie alle fragole (the Italian version of mille-feuille) and zuppa inglese – aka Italian trifle. Many dishes will rest on quality Italian produce; Hassan is working with suppliers like Cibo for sourcing.
Milan’s famous aperitivo scene will underpin the drinks menu, and there will be an Italian wine list formed mainly of small producers, and a selection of amari.
The design of Ornella – which is named after Milanese singer Ornella Vanoni, who died late last year – will be a collaborative effort between the owners and Studio Arlette, as well as furniture-maker Herb Palmer. Expect a design echoing Milan’s old-world ristoranti, with wood panelling, mid-century-inspired furniture and an open kitchen.
Ornella will open in late April at 51 Wilton Way, E8 1BG.
