Winter: Embrace or Escape?

Seen from the water, Lilløy Lindenberg appears like a Gatsby-esque hallucination: a single light glowing on top of a wave-lashed island. As you get closer, the outline of an unassuming timber house emerges from the sea mist. This dreamy Nordic vision is the latest, most intimate offering from the Frankfurt-based Lindenberg group and it’s still relatively unknown. Perched on the private island of Midtøyna, Lilløy feels a world away, but in reality it’s just a 45-minute drive from Bergen, Norway’s second city. “It feels like there’s an invisible portal on the short boat ride to the island that separates you from the madness left behind,” says owner Steen Rothenberger. “Though the occasional dorsal fin or spout gives you the comforting feeling that, even in winter, you’re never completely alone.”

Designed as a retreat for connection and contemplation, the hotel leans into the Norwegian concept of “koselig” (think hygge but more communal and outdoorsy), creating a space that makes it easy to embrace winter, not just survive it. Guests are encouraged to go deep with nature, with resident chef Antje De Vries leading by example and diving for seaweed – a signature ingredient of her inventive, plant-based fare.

Along these mossy shores, days are punctuated by herb-scented sauna sessions, gatherings round the mountaintop fireplace, and al fresco bathing as steam curls in the crisp Nordic air.

Every detail ensures deep rest, from the mattresses infused with hand-harvested seaweed to the soothing soundtrack of the ocean lapping gently against the shore. Inside, cosy interiors – by designer duo Vera & Kyte – are full of handmade ceramics, Nordic glassware and textured materials that highlight the tactile beauty of Scandinavian craftsmanship, providing a warm counterpoint to the wild Atlantic outside.
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Have the hotel book you in for bucket-list experiences like fjord tours through Vestland’s crystalline waterways or glass-blowing workshops with local artists. Visit the natural history collection at the University Museum of Bergen to marvel at everything from Viking treasure to deep-sea discoveries. Get to the heart of the city’s musical scene at electronic music venue Østre, or get inspired at DIY art space Hordaland Kunstsenter.

Taste the ocean at Lola Bistro, a chic but convivial spot helmed by Swedish chef Lotta Olsson. Go Gallic at Moon, a fine-dining restaurant by Jules and Nicolas Selukov, who combine French flavours with fresh Nordic produce. Or head to Fjåk, Kode Museum’s cafe, with its chocolate-infused hot drinks and desserts.

Get your caffeine fix with a side of harbour views at BKB coffee roastery. For something stronger, No Stress is the city’s go-to cocktail bar. Bark gastro bar pairs wines and fine bites, and Folk & Røvere is open until late.

Pick up locally made ceramics, textiles, glassware and more from the island’s self-serve shop, or find your signature scent at The Apothecary. And, since Bergen may well be Europe’s rainiest city, functional outerwear brand Norwegian Rain is worth a stop to keep you looking sharp in the drizzle.

Cristine Bedfor – named for its fictional proprietor, the whimsical English alter ego of Spanish hotelier Cristina Lozano – is known for design-rich retreats that tell the stories of people real and imagined. Since 2021, Lozano and her business partner, Daniel Entrecanales, have launched two successful hotels, first in Mahón, then Málaga. At their newest, Cristine Bedfor Sevilla, the city itself steps into the starring role. The Andalusian capital makes a great portrait-sitter, with unique traditions shaped by a lifetime at the crossroads of power.

Designer Lorenzo del Castillo channeled the influence of Italy on 17th-century Seville-born painter Diego Velázquez in interiors featuring the same garnet, blue, green and ochre tones that began appearing in the artist’s work upon his return from Naples.

Rich fabrics and a scattering of hand-selected antiques make the hotel’s 28 rooms feel lived in. They have the warmth and comfort of a friend’s home – admittedly one with a sun-doused central courtyard, rooftop pool, and the architectural credentials of a storied old town address. The grand neo-Mudéjar building Cristine Bedfor calls home is a masterwork of Sevillano architect Aníbal González, with a facade of floral crosshatch, lace-like arches and intricate azulejos tilework.

This blending of the grand and the familial sets the tone for exploring the fiery “frying pan of Europe”, where the atmosphere – and the temperature – sizzles well into winter, allowing you to step away from the SAD lamp and start pushing the limits of your summer wardrobe. “Seville is always a great destination, not only for its wonderful climate but its majesty, history and deep-rooted traditions,” Lozano says. “This is the perfect place to immerse yourself in the city’s culture and enjoy those shorter winter days filled with light and serenity.”
cristinebedforhotel.com

Stroll along the Guadalquivir River and through to Triana, where you’ll find ceramic workshops, live flamenco and down-to-earth markets. Discover the lives of Spanish aristocrats at Casa de Pilatos and Palacio de las Dueñas, check the city’s creative pulse at Galería Rafael Ortiz, or survey the city from the walkways of the Setas, the world’s largest wooden structure.

Get your tapas at the city’s timeless tabernas; two of the best are Zurbarán and Eslava. Likewise, El Rinconcillo has been serving fuss-free local dishes like oxtail stew and croquetas de jamón since 1670. Jaylu is a family-run joint perfect for long, Mediterranean-style lunches, while Cañabota is more contemporary, known for its perfectly presented seafood, open kitchen and winning wine list.

Catch the sunset from Terraza Doña María, a rooftop bar with unparalleled views of La Giralda and the cathedral. Seek some blood-red oloroso at Bodega Díaz-Salazar, a historic, no-frills bar that’s been slinging barrels of the sweet stuff since 1908. Make Montana your go-to for cocktails, La Carbonería for live flamenco and the icon-decked Bar Garlochí for a drinking experience that borders on blasphemous.

Seville is a nexus for artisan ceramics and pottery, and few do it better than The Exvotos with its Moorish-style ceramic heads. Maquedano Sombreros, meanwhile, has been crafting hats for over a century. Round off your haul at the historic flea market on Calle Feria, which takes place every Thursday.

This article was originally published in issue two of Broadsheet London's magazine.