Will Lewis, chef and founder of Willy’s Pies, has successfully transformed the basic grab-and-go pie into a serious, restaurant-worthy staple. What started as a lockdown project has now expanded into an operation selling pies to stadiums and delis across the UK, as well as on Ocado. Now, Willy’s Pies is coming to pubs – the pie’s natural habitat – in pop-up form. Lewis collaborates with each venue on the pies, and they’re baked to order on the premises.
Launching in pubs is a considered move, Lewis tells Broadsheet. “We’re focusing on pubs more now … Delis and other sites were part of our early growth after lockdown, but we’re taking a step back from that and looking at the bigger picture.”
Lewis’s focus has always been elevating takeaway pies using the skills he honed in some of London’s best restaurants, including St John, Rochelle Canteen and Brat. “At St John, pies were a centrepiece through winter. It’s such a classic, a crowd-pleaser,” he says, recalling his time making them for staff meals.
“Everyone would be buzzing … we’d just whack down a massive pie for a whole table of 12. There’s real effort that goes into it – it’s a two- to three-day process – but it ticks all the boxes: nostalgic, satisfying and just a winner.” Now, by taking on the time-consuming work himself, he’s helping pub kitchens across London to serve a great pie without the heavy lifting.
The first pub pop-up will be at The Builders Arms in Chelsea, part-led by chef Ben Tish, on October 8 and 15. Together, Tish and Lewis have created four hearty pies to comfort diners during the autumnal transition. Expect sturdy ox cheek stroganoff; roast chicken, smoked ham hock and leek; curried mutton; and earthy wild mushroom, spinach and ricotta. They’ll all be served with mash (enriched with clotted cream) and gravy. For sides, expect chips with Tunworth cheese, fresh or fried native oysters, and honey-mustard roasted carrots.
Then there’s the Wooden Cross in Crouch End, which will feature Willy’s signatures for the foreseeable future. The menu includes the hearty beef brisket, bacon and Tring ale; a fragrant roast chicken, rosemary and leek; an Italian-influenced cider-braised pork, fennel and oregano; and an aromatic curried potato, pea and mango chutney.
This is only the start: Lewis plans to work closely with pub chefs to craft pies that reflect each venue’s character.
willyspies.com
cubitthouse.co.uk/the-builders-arms
the-wooden-cross.com
