As autumn rolls into town, so do the world’s art collectors, curators and appreciators for Frieze London, the biggest week in the city’s art calendar. Alongside stands by the biggest and hottest international galleries, each year the line-up of restaurants in residence is just as impressive. Some of London’s finest eateries move into the fair, creating innovative bespoke pop-up restaurants and dishes for the week. Here’s what to eat when visiting the tent this week.
Jikoni
For the fifth year running, chef Ravinder Bhogal and her husband Nadeem Nanjuwany are bringing the homely delights of their Marylebone restaurant Jikoni to Regent’s Park. The focus here is on sustainability with ingredients from biodynamic farm partner Waltham Place (less than an hour out of London) and a totally meat-free menu that “celebrates the joy of the vegetarian option”.
The must-order dish, according to Bhogal:
“For me it’s always the hot and sour sweetcorn risotto which presents like an Italian risotto but is much lighter and brighter. Made with sunshine saturated sweetcorn and a punchy Thai-inspired hot and sour broth that is absorbed into every swell of rice. There is no cheese, but an unconscionable amount of lime leaf butter is whipped in at the end which brings a fragrant acidity that keeps you reaching for just one more forkful!.”
Rita’s
A Frieze veteran, Soho favourite Rita’s is back for its ninth year. This time round, it’s showing up as Rita's Taco Bar with a menu featuring tacos, subs and salads made with British-ingredients, as well as fresh juices and cocktails, depending on your mood.
The must-order dish, according to co-founder Missy Flynn:
“Our tinga de pollo taco is my Frieze pick this year. Chipotle-braised chicken, spicy mayo, topped with pumpkin seed macha – smoky, spicy and full of flavour. Thoroughly recommend pairing it with our Paloma. We make it with Mezcal Amaras Azul, Three Cents grapefruit soda and a pinch of Himalayan salt for a little electrolyte boost between galleries.”
Session’s Arts Club
Clerkenwell’s atmospheric Sessions Arts Club returns to the tent for its third year, with an installation and dining experience called Pilgrimage created by founder and creative director Jonny Gent. Guests will move through the space, an “imaginary landscape somewhere between memory and invention, with the sunset as its compass”, before reaching the 75-seater restaurant and bar. The menu is classic thoughtful Sessions fare with beautifully presented seasonal dishes created by head chef Fenella Brereton.
The must-order dish, according to head chef Fenella Brereton:
“We wanted the dish [halibut, smoked eel and apple] to feel like the first light of morning on a landscape. The warmth of the golden sauce, the wild greens, the simplicity of the fish. There’s something quite hopeful about sunrise, a moment of stillness before the day begins. For Pilgrimage, we wanted to bring a little of that feeling to the table, where food becomes part of the journey.”
Maison Francois
French brasserie Maison Francois returns to Frieze for year four with a stylish pop-up canteen serving all the classics it’s best known for including steak frites, roast chicken, salads and charcuterie plates, alongside French wines and ice cold martinis.
The must-order dish, according to executive chef Matthew Ryle:
“You can’t beat a steak frites when you’re at Frieze.”
Bao
Veteran Bao is back in the tent with plenty of its well-known favourite baos like the classic braised pork and beef short rib, as well as some new wildcards including a beautifully crafted Neal’s Yard Dairy and damson bao, plus a white peach and coconut iced tea, topped with a cloud of almond foam.
The must-order dish, according to co-founder and creative director Erchen Chang:
“There’s something special about this time of year, when the leaves start turning and the air gets that first crispness, and Frieze always feels like the perfect way to welcome it. This year we looked to Matisse’s cut-outs and the colours of the season, bringing together Neal’s Yard Dairy’s Montgomery Cheddar and Ogleshield with damson jelly in a bao that captures a little taste of British autumn.”
Frieze London runs from October 15-18.
